(permalink), I have to agree. I increased development to 3 minutes, and things are looking decent. Thanks for your responses. Change), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Need to try it away and post the results. Regarding the Pathescope and R processes, p-phenylene diamine itself is a very poor color developer but a good, albeit weak, low contrast B&W developer. Discard water and go to Second Exposure. Here the exposed image is developed to a negative. (permalink), Ok I did not know that. 4)Rinse
This color direct positive process has put me over the edge and now sure enough, Ive started pulling cameras out of storage and restocking on darkroom supplies. That negative image is then transferred to light-sensitive photographic paper via a second exposure. The top one was my best. (permalink), Wayne Stevenson: BTW, I will be shooting Ilfospeed RC Digital paper. 102 months ago This means that the resulting photograph is the only one of its kind, much like an original drawing or painting and tipping its hat to polaroid photography. (permalink), Looks great. Wayne Stevenson edited this topic 101 months ago. Though lot of blacks and specular highlights.
Very cool! In this step, all the residual silver halide is fully developed to form the positive image. We have however tested this process and obtained good results.
But the processing time with those chemicals was way too fast. In case of external contact immediately flush the affected area with water containing sodium bicarbonate. You can unsubscribe at any time. I was surfing the homepage for slavich looking up their papers and saw that they sell photobooth paper and that they give instructions on how to develop it right on the site :) Expose both sides of the film for the equivalent of 30-60 seconds at 46cm/18in from a 100-watt tungsten lamp or 30cm/12in from a fluorescent light tube. Dropped development on 1st down to 1 minute. (permalink), I did a bit more experimenting again back at ISO 3. Yes _loupe it is. Check out my photo stream for pics of it. Carry out the remaining steps in room lighting after bleaching has stopped. You can use a 10% solution of diluted sulphuric acid if you can't find it concentrated. That might make the process simpler, especially of you are using tanks. R &-JH` + Discard water and go to Fixing. We use cookies to make your experience better.
After the bottom one, I lowered the processing time to this one.
I stumbled upon Lumenbox on instagram a while ago and while I've seen paper expo Just ran a couple of tests with Ilford MGIV RC paper. 6)Rinse
All content copyright Francesco Fragomeni, 2011 - present. Once the film is dry it is ready for projection and can be mounted in cardboard mounts or between glass. To comply with the new e-Privacy directive, we need to ask for your consent to set the cookies. Wash the film in running water for 5 minutes. White rows of dots on negative (black on positive). I can also go from the Stock Dektol (1+4) to a more diluted working solution to add some extra time for even processing. What is the 2nd developer (same as 1st)? Processing in tanks have obviously (I expected as much) given uneven processing marks. **Appropriate protective gloves must be worn while performing the see-saw method. This $5 PCX lens isn't that great for seeing whats what, and I also wanted to ensure I was getting my exposure proper. The bleach removed the exposed silver, but there would still be unexposed silver.
www.facebook.com/14escuro/photos/a.969627619802060/408583 Not sure where it comes from as the print is perfectly white after I put in in the clearing agent. Finally, develop and fix the film according to the instructions below. Or should be about 100mg) to see what would happen as it is recommended as a necessity for B&W reversal. It must be a dichromate-sulfuric acid bleach or a permanganate bleach. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I cut down 8x10 into 4x5 to load into my cut film holders. (LogOut/ And the results are very dark. 210 0 obj <> endobj Reversal processing requires the following chemicals: Use ILFORD PQ UNIVERSAL developer diluted 1+5. Always pour the acid into the water, never add water into the acid. Mix, in order, 2L water, 19ml potassium dichromate and 24ml sulfuric acid. Are you using variable contrast paper? As a substitute could household bleach be used? Yes, I was admiring someone else's reversals and wanted to compare notes a couple weeks ago and he shared that link with me. Change), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Sorry.
lets forget I brought it up. And get a little less contrast. Re-insert the film onto the reel, if the spiral reel employed permits this. And some comments about lightening up with added hypo. All of this is done in a darkroom. It was in common use about 100 years ago or thereabouts. 99 months ago
Ended up needing about 30 seconds in second developer to get my image and blacks. If you would like to see this process in action, check out this video: Don Froula: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsMcJSwGFTo. (permalink). I will have to order some more Sodium Bisulfate to try again. The word is "rehal" bleach. Please continue your work and thanks for sharing. Pulled when nothing more happened. From where did you get it? When the sodium or potassium metabisulphite is dissolved make up to 1 litre. The clearing solution removes any yellow staining caused by bleaching. This site uses cookies to improve your experience and to help show content that is more relevant to your interests. After figuring out the right amount of exposure to increase by, I tried a few self-portraits. While waiting I have searched the web and found that potassium dichromate (which I have) and sulfuric acid (drain cleaner from Lowe's) will work as it is an old Kodak recipe. 
We'd love to send you exclusive offers, new product information, and the latest news from HARMAN technology by email. %PDF-1.5
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It was in common use about 100 years ago or thereabouts. Especially second developer. 9)Rinse
0
(permalink), Thanks. The R process used a rehal bleach and would therefore be unsuitable for reversal B&W and changing it would render it so totally different it would be a different process entirely. endstream
endobj
211 0 obj
<. (permalink), OK. A longer development time will give a lighter image and a shorter development time will give a darker image. hb```f``ZAX,
x&mvs*g%1 Originally posted 102 months ago. It starts with the development of the negative image. Decreased development to 30 seconds as well. We do not recommend reversal processing HP5 Plus or DELTA 400 PROFESSIONAL film as results are likely to exhibit unacceptably low contrast. 1 minute is pretty quick for those and you can see the top edge of that one was in the developer a little more than the rest. After the required development time, remove the cover from the tank and pour the developer away. Change). For consistent results it is important to closely monitor the time and temperature. You may safely give 2-4 times the specified exposure, but over exposure beyond this extent may lead to slightly foggy highlights. Treat the film for 2 minutes in the solution, using continuous gentle inversions. Never eat, drink or smoke whilst handling the chemicals. 99 months ago Please state that you have read and agreed to our terms before you continue. ILFORD RAPID FIXER 1+4 or ILFORD HYPAM 1+4. 99 months ago (permalink), Permanganate normally dissolves extremely quickly and easily, so that sounds a bit peculiar for a start. Pe; back when R printing was around I was considering modifying the process to accept B&W RC paper [light reversal]. 10)Fix
The first development time, nominally given as twelve minutes, may be adjusted to determine the optimum developing time for a particular ISO rating. Very black results. Part A: 2g Potassium Permangnate to 1000ml water
It turns out that my exposures had been underexposed by a stop or so. 30g Sodium Metabisulfite to 1000ml water (permalink), No visible reaction at all. Washes are used between the various stages of processing to prevent each new processing solution from contaminating the previous one. (permalink) Do not expose to sunlight as the film may start to print-out, thus affecting maximum density. After the negative image has been developed, it is totally bleached away using an acid bleach. 99 months ago Things still pretty dark. (permalink), So, next chance I have, I'm going to decrease development on the first developer some more to see if I can get my whites jCw})oAQ~A$:8::; h`h@3h, -`20eufIYi6%=L'1b-1wG3p8t J @J#~ D@ 9F It may be fatal if swallowed. I exposed the paper at ISO 3ish.
I plan to use this info for a DIY 8x10 camera. Have you had a chance to try it out yet? Reports of some rating their's at 25 (for negatives mind you). The color reversal process that Im describing here is quite different in that it does not use any film negative and allow the photographer to produce a one-off color positive image straight out of the camera, leaving behind no negative from which additional photographs can be made. So for the last experiment of today, I switched lenses so we could see what all was going on. Wash film in running water for one minute. I ask because in gum printing you can use a household bleach solution (15ml to 1 liter) to lighten a gum print. Load the exposed film into the spiral reel and place it into the tank. Strong acid stops development immediately: Extend time if necessary, for full bleaching: continuous agitation, Clearing solution removes any yellow staining caused by bleaching, Development as for normal black and white processing, Fixing as for normal black and white processing, A .pdf of this sequence can be downloaded here. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Enter your email address to follow and receive notifications of new journal entries by email.
Very cool! In this step, all the residual silver halide is fully developed to form the positive image. We have however tested this process and obtained good results.
But the processing time with those chemicals was way too fast. In case of external contact immediately flush the affected area with water containing sodium bicarbonate. You can unsubscribe at any time. I was surfing the homepage for slavich looking up their papers and saw that they sell photobooth paper and that they give instructions on how to develop it right on the site :) Expose both sides of the film for the equivalent of 30-60 seconds at 46cm/18in from a 100-watt tungsten lamp or 30cm/12in from a fluorescent light tube. Dropped development on 1st down to 1 minute. (permalink), I did a bit more experimenting again back at ISO 3. Yes _loupe it is. Check out my photo stream for pics of it. Carry out the remaining steps in room lighting after bleaching has stopped. You can use a 10% solution of diluted sulphuric acid if you can't find it concentrated. That might make the process simpler, especially of you are using tanks. R &-JH` + Discard water and go to Fixing. We use cookies to make your experience better.
After the bottom one, I lowered the processing time to this one.
I stumbled upon Lumenbox on instagram a while ago and while I've seen paper expo Just ran a couple of tests with Ilford MGIV RC paper. 6)Rinse
All content copyright Francesco Fragomeni, 2011 - present. Once the film is dry it is ready for projection and can be mounted in cardboard mounts or between glass. To comply with the new e-Privacy directive, we need to ask for your consent to set the cookies. Wash the film in running water for 5 minutes. White rows of dots on negative (black on positive). I can also go from the Stock Dektol (1+4) to a more diluted working solution to add some extra time for even processing. What is the 2nd developer (same as 1st)? Processing in tanks have obviously (I expected as much) given uneven processing marks. **Appropriate protective gloves must be worn while performing the see-saw method. This $5 PCX lens isn't that great for seeing whats what, and I also wanted to ensure I was getting my exposure proper. The bleach removed the exposed silver, but there would still be unexposed silver. www.facebook.com/14escuro/photos/a.969627619802060/408583 Not sure where it comes from as the print is perfectly white after I put in in the clearing agent. Finally, develop and fix the film according to the instructions below. Or should be about 100mg) to see what would happen as it is recommended as a necessity for B&W reversal. It must be a dichromate-sulfuric acid bleach or a permanganate bleach. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I cut down 8x10 into 4x5 to load into my cut film holders. (LogOut/ And the results are very dark. 210 0 obj <> endobj Reversal processing requires the following chemicals: Use ILFORD PQ UNIVERSAL developer diluted 1+5. Always pour the acid into the water, never add water into the acid. Mix, in order, 2L water, 19ml potassium dichromate and 24ml sulfuric acid. Are you using variable contrast paper? As a substitute could household bleach be used? Yes, I was admiring someone else's reversals and wanted to compare notes a couple weeks ago and he shared that link with me. Change), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Sorry.
lets forget I brought it up. And get a little less contrast. Re-insert the film onto the reel, if the spiral reel employed permits this. And some comments about lightening up with added hypo. All of this is done in a darkroom. It was in common use about 100 years ago or thereabouts. 99 months ago
Ended up needing about 30 seconds in second developer to get my image and blacks. If you would like to see this process in action, check out this video: Don Froula: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsMcJSwGFTo. (permalink). I will have to order some more Sodium Bisulfate to try again. The word is "rehal" bleach. Please continue your work and thanks for sharing. Pulled when nothing more happened. From where did you get it? When the sodium or potassium metabisulphite is dissolved make up to 1 litre. The clearing solution removes any yellow staining caused by bleaching. This site uses cookies to improve your experience and to help show content that is more relevant to your interests. After figuring out the right amount of exposure to increase by, I tried a few self-portraits. While waiting I have searched the web and found that potassium dichromate (which I have) and sulfuric acid (drain cleaner from Lowe's) will work as it is an old Kodak recipe. We'd love to send you exclusive offers, new product information, and the latest news from HARMAN technology by email. %PDF-1.5
%
It was in common use about 100 years ago or thereabouts. Especially second developer. 9)Rinse
0
(permalink), Thanks. The R process used a rehal bleach and would therefore be unsuitable for reversal B&W and changing it would render it so totally different it would be a different process entirely. endstream
endobj
211 0 obj
<. (permalink), OK. A longer development time will give a lighter image and a shorter development time will give a darker image. hb```f``ZAX,
x&mvs*g%1 Originally posted 102 months ago. It starts with the development of the negative image. Decreased development to 30 seconds as well. We do not recommend reversal processing HP5 Plus or DELTA 400 PROFESSIONAL film as results are likely to exhibit unacceptably low contrast. 1 minute is pretty quick for those and you can see the top edge of that one was in the developer a little more than the rest. After the required development time, remove the cover from the tank and pour the developer away. Change). For consistent results it is important to closely monitor the time and temperature. You may safely give 2-4 times the specified exposure, but over exposure beyond this extent may lead to slightly foggy highlights. Treat the film for 2 minutes in the solution, using continuous gentle inversions. Never eat, drink or smoke whilst handling the chemicals. 99 months ago Please state that you have read and agreed to our terms before you continue. ILFORD RAPID FIXER 1+4 or ILFORD HYPAM 1+4. 99 months ago (permalink), Permanganate normally dissolves extremely quickly and easily, so that sounds a bit peculiar for a start. Pe; back when R printing was around I was considering modifying the process to accept B&W RC paper [light reversal]. 10)Fix
The first development time, nominally given as twelve minutes, may be adjusted to determine the optimum developing time for a particular ISO rating. Very black results. Part A: 2g Potassium Permangnate to 1000ml water
It turns out that my exposures had been underexposed by a stop or so. 30g Sodium Metabisulfite to 1000ml water (permalink), No visible reaction at all. Washes are used between the various stages of processing to prevent each new processing solution from contaminating the previous one. (permalink) Do not expose to sunlight as the film may start to print-out, thus affecting maximum density. After the negative image has been developed, it is totally bleached away using an acid bleach. 99 months ago Things still pretty dark. (permalink), So, next chance I have, I'm going to decrease development on the first developer some more to see if I can get my whites jCw})oAQ~A$:8::; h`h@3h, -`20eufIYi6%=L'1b-1wG3p8t J @J#~ D@ 9F It may be fatal if swallowed. I exposed the paper at ISO 3ish.
I plan to use this info for a DIY 8x10 camera. Have you had a chance to try it out yet? Reports of some rating their's at 25 (for negatives mind you). The color reversal process that Im describing here is quite different in that it does not use any film negative and allow the photographer to produce a one-off color positive image straight out of the camera, leaving behind no negative from which additional photographs can be made. So for the last experiment of today, I switched lenses so we could see what all was going on. Wash film in running water for one minute. I ask because in gum printing you can use a household bleach solution (15ml to 1 liter) to lighten a gum print. Load the exposed film into the spiral reel and place it into the tank. Strong acid stops development immediately: Extend time if necessary, for full bleaching: continuous agitation, Clearing solution removes any yellow staining caused by bleaching, Development as for normal black and white processing, Fixing as for normal black and white processing, A .pdf of this sequence can be downloaded here. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Enter your email address to follow and receive notifications of new journal entries by email.