Next requirement would be American made- that leaves out the HD Chinese made Gorilla crap. I have both Werner and Keller 8'ladders and have compared them side by side including the thickness of the FG. Are you sure about that? We all value different qualities and attributes differently--- I just don't place that high of a value on $50 for instance-------- the other rationales?---well as I said earlier--fiberglas posses some positive qualities I feel strongly outweigh very minor negative possibilities. Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA. You could be right. It is very light, quick and does fine for me. $50 over the life of the ladder----that's nothing, BUT---if we were all doing a bit of soul searching---- I would bet that $50 is the REAL objection most people have--------all the other things like UV degradation are pretty silly objections if you think about it---------. LOL. Now----- i think Dieselpig pointed out that the cost difference is maybe $50. Have also had good luck with the 18 foot Stanleys from Walmart. lb Have a 12' Werner step ladder and a 12' Keller step ladder. We use nuthing but alum on every job since I started w/ Grant over a yr ago. I'm sure that each and every one of us is capable of a moment's lapse. 2 How many Fire Depts in the country use fiberglass ladders as there means of accessing burning buildings? was right on the button as evidenced by Stephen's and my lively debates. If your internal scale weighs things differently---well that's cool to---but I ain't working off of your ladders. It only takes a momentary lapse of judgement for an accident occur. Yes it's true OSHA has no juristiction over whatever I do to myself. I get to learn from the best of the best and your experience seemsto make you fit right in with that vein. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts.". No complaints. Did they tend to break easily? We use standoffs for almost all of our gutter work. Sorry if I ruffled your feathers,but you and Nikkiwood started discussing strength and other topics way back in this thread-and my interjections were related to those topics not whatever kind of smack you called it. You folks all make good points. quite a few do NEED , say a 24 ft one---and quite a few are gonna be right next to a power line, so---to me, the choice and the immediate need are obvious-----somebody else might size things up differently, to be clear about the pick----- it's a 24 ft pick----so I can't work the entire bottom edge of the roof( most roofs here would be 30 or 32 ft.). I mentioned how I don't like them as they seem to need adjustment -- they swell and shrink with the weather and time.I am curious about the old wooden extension ladders. 'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity. I'm trying to get forumhelp to find out why I can't post pic's,cause I've got a lot to share. My first cheery pop w/ a 60' wood tri lift was in 82.A Union guy was toten up a bundle ( 80lb?) 
and both of ouropportunities to do so are part of why we aren't punching a clock for someone else -----isn't it ? I did a great deal of roofing and siding work in the Akron, Ohio area some years back. You mention several other points but the one that keeps coming up is the shock hazard.Let me ask you this, do you rely solely on a FG ladder for protection from the service or do you employ other means?Your point about the utility lineman is a little stretch, I think. I do not find 16' or 24' ladders to be partiularly heavy. I'm inclined to say that AL will last longer than FG.I used to buy only FG extension ladders but I had some problems with a 24' Werner warping on me. Just idle curiosity because I've only seen a few wooden ladders in all my short career at this.As for myself, I will always buy fiberglass and high rated as well. I've got a Werner 32(36'?) I'd hate to have to be stuck with a fly section from a 40' fg as achickenladder. is based on fear of getting hurt. footer that's over 20 years old and doing fine. I would guess that there is not enough contact difference among the three. And frankly---it's a 2 man pick--- I hate it---and prefer just working from the ladder as it's generally more work to set up the picthan to move the ladder a few times. I don't think anyone should duplicate our "test" cuz we know how to land, if something should give way. d1532 aluminum I don't know if it's because you always see FG on utility and municipial trucks (which typically look decent and professional) or what but I think the FG does have an edge there. Yet in the same post you admit to using ladderjacks on 24', 32' and 40' ladders. you are assuming an attitude on my part that just doesn't exist in this issue, Read carefully------- you will see that I was carefull to phrase things specifically NOT to lump you in with some of the others------------, personally------ on the basis of dailey use alone---- I would value your input on this topic MUCH more than the opinion of infrequent ladder users, however----------- since I now use fiberglass exclusively, and I have yet to encounter any significant examples in real life of the theoretical drawbacks you object to---------, then YES--- I will discount your objections--- but not arbitrarily. One of the 60's is older and both sections are raised in unison when you pull the rope. I own 2 that are made of alum. Sooner or later someone will take a short cut when you're not looking. I have 6 of their ladders (three extensions, three steps, and a 12' stage). 
Excellence is its own reward! I'll have to remember to give that a try next time. I'm glad you enjoy my posts. 
There is a reason they are cheap. and------ now-adays I take a cordless saw up top when required--------- but for most of my career I was hauling a long extension cord up the ladder behind a circ. See what I mean? Common sense rules..at MY house, that is why y'all saw one of each when I first tore out the west wall..I put the orange nearest the wires..geeze. I need to replace the ladder dogs because one of the springs doesn't wantto spring anymore. the discusion---PRIMARILY was 16,24,28 and 32 ft.----who in their right mind is gonna NOT use a 24 ft.--- because YOU don't think the same material is safe over a 40 fter-------- so what---completely irrelevant---and in point of fact---not even under consideration. Instead of getting 2 16 fts and 2 24 frs at least consider a different assortment like a 16,24,28 and 32------------- that gives you a LOT more versatility and you can usually still pair-em to run a pic plank just fine. Does fiberglass burn or melt before aluminum gets too hot to use for escape? walter--------- if you read the original poster, he is describing use very different from YOURS, in fact-- he is describing use almost identical to MINE. 
The coloring on the ladder is paint and stain, not rust. Here---- overhead wires would be the rule----almost EVERY job will have them----- and I would still use the fiberglass ladder even if I NEVER encountered an overhead wire. 15+ items sold. I sure am. One other excellent looking item by http://www.stabiladder.comis a new and improved leg leveling device which doesn't require bolting to the leg but looks really rugged and strong. I have a Werner 24' alum and love it. My only thoughts are geared to stability. That's my litmus test for ladders. Those are two tuff ladders. You're right it's a violation to have an employee working as you suggest,but as a sole proprietor OSHA can not cite me for doing it.I do a lot of things in my slate work that I wouldn't consider asking an employee to do. My oldtimer partner says he owned a 40' wooden ladder and loved it.What are they like and how long did they generally last? Ladders Unlimmited up in cleveland will set ya up right with those ladders-------and might cut ya a deal if ya buy 'em all at once. It's really a misconception that alum. If I know we will have work around the service drop then I prefer to call the power company and have them either protect or remove the conductors in question.A FG ladder is not 100% safe, it just elminates some of the risk. And I should also throw away the guards on my saws because it will force me to be more careful in how I handle them. I must have missed the earlier post. You were harnessed, right? I did not like it. One thing I do miss is a box of copper cut nails with roofer type heads I used to have, they were some cool nails..I don't they make em anymore. that's perfectly fair Jon---no problem with that. Good seller with good positive feedback and good amount of ratings. It's made by Blue Ribbon out of Illinois or Ohiobut the company seems to be out of business. fiberglass breaks down with uv rays and mine usually ride around on top of the van for me usually working alone a big part of ladder safety is safely moving them ladders around. Brian is correct,ladders with jacks max out at 20'-if you have employees on them.He's also right on that harnesses and lines are needed if there are no backrails-this from anything over 6'. Then it is junk. "we even BOTH got on one end ..low to ground of course"But that is not worse case.If you want to try it them have them at full extension and then try this in the middle of the ladder.And of course there is some safety margin built in. WTF? I would expect most here to be familiar with Werner. the number of ladders you possess and your longegevity here would not be of any concern of mine. We have legitamit differences in what we prefer and our work is different.I was pointing out that Alum . dieselpig mentioned something about a osha reg regaurding 20 ft on the pick, I wasn't aware of that---- but usually I would set a pick so that the bottom edge of the roof hits me right about the gut level----------- so---in general I doubt the pick is usually over 20 ft high---never measured. I have always had my ladders in pairs according to length. If you or I are working alone,as sole prop's than these reg's are not enforceable-but if you employ or use subs then the law requires rails or lines to prevent workers falling. Edited 1/1/2006 8:11 pm ET by theslateman. cost difference is absurdly small----and spread out over the life of the ladder---virtually non--existant. I do admire your drive and to be so far advanced in the business at your age. It was heavy as heck and there was plenty of give in it- not that it is bad, but I suppose wood would give more than aluminum or fiberglass. RE: Cost----- I would be embarrassed to bring this up as well------ at what price safety? Yeah, feel more confident on the high FG ext. I'm reluctant because I know my personality would be to take more risks since I have FG.To be honest, we don't often run into overhead power in this area. Using ladder jacks over 20' is an OSHA violation. Yeah, those nails still came in kegs I think, a contractor I had worked for had a 100lbs or so, I bought 20 or so lbs for ornamental accents on furniture..but they were in the shop when it burnt, have not seen any since anywhere. As for the issue of aluminum sliding against the building, why not put something on it to prevent that -- slit rubber hose, gaffer's tape, something like that? Aluminum ladder leaning against alum.gutter-using no pipe insulation.I did use a short line as an insurance against slipping-it was lightly snowing at the time. My impression is that the FG will last longer - less racking or twisting or loosening rung joints. your objections might be real----- but in my opinion they are overwelmingly outweighed by fiberglass' positive attributes in this application. While you can be as careful as abomb tech in handling your ladder around live wires, you can't always control how your guys work every second of every day. Werner, a 32 ft. Werner, and a 28ft. Not from normal wear and tear, but from employee abuse. THANKS for all the input. I wasn't doing gutter work but installing snow guards into a slate roof to keep avalanching snow and ice from hitting pedestrians or vehicles.
and both of ouropportunities to do so are part of why we aren't punching a clock for someone else -----isn't it ? I did a great deal of roofing and siding work in the Akron, Ohio area some years back. You mention several other points but the one that keeps coming up is the shock hazard.Let me ask you this, do you rely solely on a FG ladder for protection from the service or do you employ other means?Your point about the utility lineman is a little stretch, I think. I do not find 16' or 24' ladders to be partiularly heavy. I'm inclined to say that AL will last longer than FG.I used to buy only FG extension ladders but I had some problems with a 24' Werner warping on me. Just idle curiosity because I've only seen a few wooden ladders in all my short career at this.As for myself, I will always buy fiberglass and high rated as well. I've got a Werner 32(36'?) I'd hate to have to be stuck with a fly section from a 40' fg as achickenladder. is based on fear of getting hurt. footer that's over 20 years old and doing fine. I would guess that there is not enough contact difference among the three. And frankly---it's a 2 man pick--- I hate it---and prefer just working from the ladder as it's generally more work to set up the picthan to move the ladder a few times. I don't think anyone should duplicate our "test" cuz we know how to land, if something should give way. d1532 aluminum I don't know if it's because you always see FG on utility and municipial trucks (which typically look decent and professional) or what but I think the FG does have an edge there. Yet in the same post you admit to using ladderjacks on 24', 32' and 40' ladders. you are assuming an attitude on my part that just doesn't exist in this issue, Read carefully------- you will see that I was carefull to phrase things specifically NOT to lump you in with some of the others------------, personally------ on the basis of dailey use alone---- I would value your input on this topic MUCH more than the opinion of infrequent ladder users, however----------- since I now use fiberglass exclusively, and I have yet to encounter any significant examples in real life of the theoretical drawbacks you object to---------, then YES--- I will discount your objections--- but not arbitrarily. One of the 60's is older and both sections are raised in unison when you pull the rope. I own 2 that are made of alum. Sooner or later someone will take a short cut when you're not looking. I have 6 of their ladders (three extensions, three steps, and a 12' stage). 
Excellence is its own reward! I'll have to remember to give that a try next time. I'm glad you enjoy my posts. There is a reason they are cheap. and------ now-adays I take a cordless saw up top when required--------- but for most of my career I was hauling a long extension cord up the ladder behind a circ. See what I mean? Common sense rules..at MY house, that is why y'all saw one of each when I first tore out the west wall..I put the orange nearest the wires..geeze. I need to replace the ladder dogs because one of the springs doesn't wantto spring anymore. the discusion---PRIMARILY was 16,24,28 and 32 ft.----who in their right mind is gonna NOT use a 24 ft.--- because YOU don't think the same material is safe over a 40 fter-------- so what---completely irrelevant---and in point of fact---not even under consideration. Instead of getting 2 16 fts and 2 24 frs at least consider a different assortment like a 16,24,28 and 32------------- that gives you a LOT more versatility and you can usually still pair-em to run a pic plank just fine. Does fiberglass burn or melt before aluminum gets too hot to use for escape? walter--------- if you read the original poster, he is describing use very different from YOURS, in fact-- he is describing use almost identical to MINE. The coloring on the ladder is paint and stain, not rust. Here---- overhead wires would be the rule----almost EVERY job will have them----- and I would still use the fiberglass ladder even if I NEVER encountered an overhead wire. 15+ items sold. I sure am. One other excellent looking item by http://www.stabiladder.comis a new and improved leg leveling device which doesn't require bolting to the leg but looks really rugged and strong. I have a Werner 24' alum and love it. My only thoughts are geared to stability. That's my litmus test for ladders. Those are two tuff ladders. You're right it's a violation to have an employee working as you suggest,but as a sole proprietor OSHA can not cite me for doing it.I do a lot of things in my slate work that I wouldn't consider asking an employee to do. My oldtimer partner says he owned a 40' wooden ladder and loved it.What are they like and how long did they generally last? Ladders Unlimmited up in cleveland will set ya up right with those ladders-------and might cut ya a deal if ya buy 'em all at once. It's really a misconception that alum. If I know we will have work around the service drop then I prefer to call the power company and have them either protect or remove the conductors in question.A FG ladder is not 100% safe, it just elminates some of the risk. And I should also throw away the guards on my saws because it will force me to be more careful in how I handle them. I must have missed the earlier post. You were harnessed, right? I did not like it. One thing I do miss is a box of copper cut nails with roofer type heads I used to have, they were some cool nails..I don't they make em anymore. that's perfectly fair Jon---no problem with that. Good seller with good positive feedback and good amount of ratings. It's made by Blue Ribbon out of Illinois or Ohiobut the company seems to be out of business. fiberglass breaks down with uv rays and mine usually ride around on top of the van for me usually working alone a big part of ladder safety is safely moving them ladders around. Brian is correct,ladders with jacks max out at 20'-if you have employees on them.He's also right on that harnesses and lines are needed if there are no backrails-this from anything over 6'. Then it is junk. "we even BOTH got on one end ..low to ground of course"But that is not worse case.If you want to try it them have them at full extension and then try this in the middle of the ladder.And of course there is some safety margin built in. WTF? I would expect most here to be familiar with Werner. the number of ladders you possess and your longegevity here would not be of any concern of mine. We have legitamit differences in what we prefer and our work is different.I was pointing out that Alum . dieselpig mentioned something about a osha reg regaurding 20 ft on the pick, I wasn't aware of that---- but usually I would set a pick so that the bottom edge of the roof hits me right about the gut level----------- so---in general I doubt the pick is usually over 20 ft high---never measured. I have always had my ladders in pairs according to length. If you or I are working alone,as sole prop's than these reg's are not enforceable-but if you employ or use subs then the law requires rails or lines to prevent workers falling. Edited 1/1/2006 8:11 pm ET by theslateman. cost difference is absurdly small----and spread out over the life of the ladder---virtually non--existant. I do admire your drive and to be so far advanced in the business at your age. It was heavy as heck and there was plenty of give in it- not that it is bad, but I suppose wood would give more than aluminum or fiberglass. RE: Cost----- I would be embarrassed to bring this up as well------ at what price safety? Yeah, feel more confident on the high FG ext. I'm reluctant because I know my personality would be to take more risks since I have FG.To be honest, we don't often run into overhead power in this area. Using ladder jacks over 20' is an OSHA violation. Yeah, those nails still came in kegs I think, a contractor I had worked for had a 100lbs or so, I bought 20 or so lbs for ornamental accents on furniture..but they were in the shop when it burnt, have not seen any since anywhere. As for the issue of aluminum sliding against the building, why not put something on it to prevent that -- slit rubber hose, gaffer's tape, something like that? Aluminum ladder leaning against alum.gutter-using no pipe insulation.I did use a short line as an insurance against slipping-it was lightly snowing at the time. My impression is that the FG will last longer - less racking or twisting or loosening rung joints. your objections might be real----- but in my opinion they are overwelmingly outweighed by fiberglass' positive attributes in this application. While you can be as careful as abomb tech in handling your ladder around live wires, you can't always control how your guys work every second of every day. Werner, a 32 ft. Werner, and a 28ft. Not from normal wear and tear, but from employee abuse. THANKS for all the input. I wasn't doing gutter work but installing snow guards into a slate roof to keep avalanching snow and ice from hitting pedestrians or vehicles.
