Written by top outdoors experts and enthusiasts, each guide invites you to experience the endless adventure and rugged beauty of the great outdoors. So when a new colleague asked me to go bouldering one weekend, I was stoked. Best spots: Everywhere! We turned off Interstate 25 and into a little village called Wagon Mound, population291. You could visit a different area every day of the season and still not have touched most of the routes. Rock Climbing New Mexico (State Rock Climbing Series). There really is no question about it being one of the best bouldering areas in the United States.. If you think you know where Capitan Gap, La Cuevo Canyon, Three Gun Springs, Sierra Bonita or San Juan Basin Volcanic Necks are located then please take a minute to locate them for the climbing community. If yourstyle is long, overhanging roofs, pay a visit to Mega Roof, which has several climbs at different levels. 
Classic routes include Fun Bags (V6) and Instagram-worthy Triangular (V6), which takes you up a long arteand tops out at a sketchy point that would make anyone queasy. Use its 200 blank, lined pages to express your thoughts and creativity. Best spots: Box Canyon, Roy, Ponderosa/Pond. Recommended seasons are described in each area description, but below is a broad overview of seasonal weather and how to deal with it. 
Most places in town are closed on Sundays. The heat, lack of shade and frequent fire closures that often follow makes this a difficult season for boulderers, although many areas can be climbed at early in the morning or late in the evening, or with cloud cover. Try a level down. To write a comprehensive bouldering guidebook for such a huge state (a land area larger than Italy) is clearly an impossible task. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. and put out your campfires completely before you leave them. Some forest areas, and the climbing within them, can remain closed for periods lasting years in extreme cases. , Item Weight Due to Roys remote nature, other options are extremely limited.
Towering over the high desert city of Albuquerque, the Sandia Mountains are arguably New Mexico's finest backcountry climbing area. Try again. More advanced climbers looking for a project will love the challenge of Calm Ethereal (V13), a beautiful line that has a unique, dynamic move up to a side-pull crack. They are common in Socorro and Roy in the summer.
Be sure to close all gates you pass through, and not to disturb any cattle you encounter. This bouldering guidebook is the first of its kind for the state, a long-awaited addition that describes over 1000 problems in accurate detail with stunning photographs, carefully designed maps and reliable, verified beta. The descriptions of different regions of this vast state make this a good, general, stand-alone, outdoors-y guide to New Mexico for anyone interested in climbing/hiking/camping/etc. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. Best spots: Posos, Ortega West, Monster Island.
Drink lots of water and take it slow. Altitude: Be warned that those travelling from sea level can feel the effects of altitude here similar to feeling hung-over or tired. A lot of impactcan be mitigated whenvisitors followall Leave No Trace principles, including cleaning any tick marks before leaving a climb, packing out all trash and human waste, keeping noise pollution to a minimum, and respecting the locals. An opportunity for me to wax lyrical about New Mexico climbing and introduce this book, the first ever bouldering guide to the state, a wise purchase for which I must whole heartedly congratulate you! Traffic from both local and out-of-state climbers has steadily increased ever since, bringing a slew of environmentalissues.
Unable to add item to List.
Using an explosive. Fireworks and incendiary devices are never allowed on federal public lands. Follow the rules for fire restrictions commonly in place during the summer. Given the lack of information and quantities of choss to sift through here, this is perhaps excusable.
HAZARDS The high desert environment can be a harsh place, and there are many hazards to be prepared for: Theres the six-person La Casita Guest House in Roy (from $70), which could be a good choice for those exceptionally cold nights. We do not accept money for editorial gear reviews. STAGE 1 The following acts are prohibited: It was March 2018, and Id just moved to New Mexico from the frigid climes of Minnesota. [Roy] isnt going anywhere, its just getting better and better, Summerscales says. With its inclusion in this yearsReelRock14documentary film The High Road, which debuted in October, theres more interest in the areathan ever before. Chances areyou wont have cell service, so let people know where youre going and when youll be back. Weather tends to (but not always) move west to east keep an eye on the skies to avoid being hit unexpectedly by a violent summer storm. Although smaller groups explored Roy in the 1990s,the areawas largely uncovered in 2003 by archaeologist and climber William Penner, who was conducting a survey for the U.S. Forest Service. Ah the authors foreword! NF National Forest At firstits easy to feel that this farming town peaked 40 years ago. Middle Mesteo has one of the shortest approaches, at about 15 minutes, but can be steep in some parts. We dont share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we dont sell your information to others. This area is popular for hunting turkey and pronghorn, but you shouldnt run into many hunters, as they usually venture closer to the Canadian River, west ofthe climbing areas. This item can be returned in its original condition for a full refund or replacement within 30 days of receipt. The prime season to visit Roy is winter. Summer is too hot to navigate the canyons safely, not to mention theyre rife with rattlesnakes. Mountain Project and Access Fund are partners An iconic orange-and-white-striped water tower looms over the primary drag, which is scattered with small semi-abandoned shops and hotels. A guide to the bouldering in the City of Rocks State Park just west of Las Cruces. Theres also dispersed camping at some trailheads, like the popular Jumbles climbing area. L, LHS Left, Left-Hand Side Exceptions: * Persons using a device fueled solely by liquid petroleum or LPG fuels that can be turned on and off. Tread lightly and pay attention to your surroundings. We feel that we share that with all recreational users. Use a high-clearancefour-wheel-drive vehicle. PDFs not available for regions. Owen Summerscales | Los Alamos, Winter 2015 Be respectful when staying in these spots, as theres been increased impact from use in recent years. Welding, or operating acetylene or other torch with open flame. With a wide spectrum of route difficulty and commitment levels, these mountains offer adventure for the beginner, as well as the seasoned veteran. : Long Ass (V1) is a great warm-up, with sweeping views of the canyon at the top. The monsoon season, which usually kicks off around mid- to late-July in New Mexico, is a showcase of dramatic weather. More advanced climbers will find solace in climbs like Icarus (V7) or RoyGBiv (V10). But its worth noting that even with the guidebook or app, trails can be difficult to locate, so budget extra time on your first trip to search for climbs. The sheer volume and density of high-quality climbs in Roy makeit differentfromanywhere else Ive been in the United States. The community has spoken and made it crystal clear that these practices are totally unacceptable on boulders in New Mexico, since prominent instances in the past. Furthermore, no climbing on rocks close to significant archaeological resources and/or petroglyphs.
With these new areas comes a responsibility to treat the land with respect, practice leave-no-trace ethics, and stick to the embryonic trail systems. Tragedy, crime and infamous history are hidden within their unassuming walls. Virtually every dedicated boulderer in the West has been to New Mexico.
Stickers. Injuries should be thought of in the same respect as people who go out in the wilderness.. Note that these areas all require driving on dirt roads to access once monsoon season begins, they get muddy and often require a 4WD/AWD vehicle to navigate. The sudden influx of climbers caught townies and Forest Service land managersoff guard, not because they didnt want people coming to Roy, but because they, like me, didnt trust the clamors of world-class climbing in the otherwise barren landscape. Welcome to the enchanting rock climbing of the Jemez Mountains. Go enjoy. Join Outside+ to get Outside magazine, access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. Written by an opinionated local expert, this guide will help you make the most of your time and money, no matter your budget. The vast majority of this information has remained obscure until now, with roughly 80% of these problems previously undocumented. Read more about our policy. I have also included basic information on how to locate locals areas and other less concentrated spots enough to get you reliably to the boulders. Respect local ranchers and hunters. FS Forest Service ETHICS AND ARCHAEOLOGY: No chipping, glue/sika, rosin/pof or excuses.
When you buy something using the retail links in our stories, we may earn a small commission. Snow usually will not hang around at lower elevations however. Although there have undoubtedly been many gems uncovered from the original wave of development, perhaps the most exciting phase of New Mexico bouldering is right now. Signs of civilization were quickly replaced by swaths of dried-up grassland dotted with free-range cattle. As shown on the map above, most roads and trails to these climbing areas split off from Mills Canyon Rim Campground, which serves as a perfect base camp. PRIVATE LAND:A large percentage of New Mexico is public land and open for recreation, including climbing. Unlike big climbing destinations, like Red Rock near Las Vegas, Roys remoteness adds a sense of raw adventure that reminds me of running around in the woods as a kidlike somehow youre the only one in on this magical secret. Coupled with existing bouldering in Box Canyon near Socorro, the Sandia Mountains near Albuquerque, and around Ponderosa in the Jemez Mountains, the bouldering in New Mexico is truly destination-worthy.
Operating any internal combustion engine. City Of Rocks and Questa would also be worthy of describing in detail, but I neglected to do so as they are featured in other guidebooks (see Appendix). Check out the topos on the Vertical-Life App. Currently, there are only two establishedcampgrounds:Mills Canyon, which is difficult to reach and far away from climbing areas, and Mills Canyon Rim, a site that has two pit toilets and six official campsites. Poison Oak: Uncommon in arid climates and above 5000 ft, nonetheless it is found in Roy along streambed banks, so be vigilant and avoid unnecessary bushwhacking if youre sensitive. The arid climate allows great climbing conditions but also proliferates large volumes of loose choss, which would otherwise be eroded away in wetter environs.
Smoking, except within an enclosed vehicle or building, a developed recreation site/improved site or while stopped in an area at least three feet in diameter that is barren or cleared of all flammable materials. Storm systems can occur at any time of the year and will radically change things!
Classic routes include Fun Bags (V6) and Instagram-worthy Triangular (V6), which takes you up a long arteand tops out at a sketchy point that would make anyone queasy. Use its 200 blank, lined pages to express your thoughts and creativity. Best spots: Box Canyon, Roy, Ponderosa/Pond. Recommended seasons are described in each area description, but below is a broad overview of seasonal weather and how to deal with it. Most places in town are closed on Sundays. The heat, lack of shade and frequent fire closures that often follow makes this a difficult season for boulderers, although many areas can be climbed at early in the morning or late in the evening, or with cloud cover. Try a level down. To write a comprehensive bouldering guidebook for such a huge state (a land area larger than Italy) is clearly an impossible task. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. and put out your campfires completely before you leave them. Some forest areas, and the climbing within them, can remain closed for periods lasting years in extreme cases. , Item Weight Due to Roys remote nature, other options are extremely limited. Towering over the high desert city of Albuquerque, the Sandia Mountains are arguably New Mexico's finest backcountry climbing area. Try again. More advanced climbers looking for a project will love the challenge of Calm Ethereal (V13), a beautiful line that has a unique, dynamic move up to a side-pull crack. They are common in Socorro and Roy in the summer.
Be sure to close all gates you pass through, and not to disturb any cattle you encounter. This bouldering guidebook is the first of its kind for the state, a long-awaited addition that describes over 1000 problems in accurate detail with stunning photographs, carefully designed maps and reliable, verified beta. The descriptions of different regions of this vast state make this a good, general, stand-alone, outdoors-y guide to New Mexico for anyone interested in climbing/hiking/camping/etc. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. Best spots: Posos, Ortega West, Monster Island. Drink lots of water and take it slow. Altitude: Be warned that those travelling from sea level can feel the effects of altitude here similar to feeling hung-over or tired. A lot of impactcan be mitigated whenvisitors followall Leave No Trace principles, including cleaning any tick marks before leaving a climb, packing out all trash and human waste, keeping noise pollution to a minimum, and respecting the locals. An opportunity for me to wax lyrical about New Mexico climbing and introduce this book, the first ever bouldering guide to the state, a wise purchase for which I must whole heartedly congratulate you! Traffic from both local and out-of-state climbers has steadily increased ever since, bringing a slew of environmentalissues.
Unable to add item to List.
Using an explosive. Fireworks and incendiary devices are never allowed on federal public lands. Follow the rules for fire restrictions commonly in place during the summer. Given the lack of information and quantities of choss to sift through here, this is perhaps excusable.
HAZARDS The high desert environment can be a harsh place, and there are many hazards to be prepared for: Theres the six-person La Casita Guest House in Roy (from $70), which could be a good choice for those exceptionally cold nights. We do not accept money for editorial gear reviews. STAGE 1 The following acts are prohibited: It was March 2018, and Id just moved to New Mexico from the frigid climes of Minnesota. [Roy] isnt going anywhere, its just getting better and better, Summerscales says. With its inclusion in this yearsReelRock14documentary film The High Road, which debuted in October, theres more interest in the areathan ever before. Chances areyou wont have cell service, so let people know where youre going and when youll be back. Weather tends to (but not always) move west to east keep an eye on the skies to avoid being hit unexpectedly by a violent summer storm. Although smaller groups explored Roy in the 1990s,the areawas largely uncovered in 2003 by archaeologist and climber William Penner, who was conducting a survey for the U.S. Forest Service. Ah the authors foreword! NF National Forest At firstits easy to feel that this farming town peaked 40 years ago. Middle Mesteo has one of the shortest approaches, at about 15 minutes, but can be steep in some parts. We dont share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we dont sell your information to others. This area is popular for hunting turkey and pronghorn, but you shouldnt run into many hunters, as they usually venture closer to the Canadian River, west ofthe climbing areas. This item can be returned in its original condition for a full refund or replacement within 30 days of receipt. The prime season to visit Roy is winter. Summer is too hot to navigate the canyons safely, not to mention theyre rife with rattlesnakes. Mountain Project and Access Fund are partners An iconic orange-and-white-striped water tower looms over the primary drag, which is scattered with small semi-abandoned shops and hotels. A guide to the bouldering in the City of Rocks State Park just west of Las Cruces. Theres also dispersed camping at some trailheads, like the popular Jumbles climbing area. L, LHS Left, Left-Hand Side Exceptions: * Persons using a device fueled solely by liquid petroleum or LPG fuels that can be turned on and off. Tread lightly and pay attention to your surroundings. We feel that we share that with all recreational users. Use a high-clearancefour-wheel-drive vehicle. PDFs not available for regions. Owen Summerscales | Los Alamos, Winter 2015 Be respectful when staying in these spots, as theres been increased impact from use in recent years. Welding, or operating acetylene or other torch with open flame. With a wide spectrum of route difficulty and commitment levels, these mountains offer adventure for the beginner, as well as the seasoned veteran. : Long Ass (V1) is a great warm-up, with sweeping views of the canyon at the top. The monsoon season, which usually kicks off around mid- to late-July in New Mexico, is a showcase of dramatic weather. More advanced climbers will find solace in climbs like Icarus (V7) or RoyGBiv (V10). But its worth noting that even with the guidebook or app, trails can be difficult to locate, so budget extra time on your first trip to search for climbs. The sheer volume and density of high-quality climbs in Roy makeit differentfromanywhere else Ive been in the United States. The community has spoken and made it crystal clear that these practices are totally unacceptable on boulders in New Mexico, since prominent instances in the past. Furthermore, no climbing on rocks close to significant archaeological resources and/or petroglyphs.
With these new areas comes a responsibility to treat the land with respect, practice leave-no-trace ethics, and stick to the embryonic trail systems. Tragedy, crime and infamous history are hidden within their unassuming walls. Virtually every dedicated boulderer in the West has been to New Mexico.
Stickers. Injuries should be thought of in the same respect as people who go out in the wilderness.. Note that these areas all require driving on dirt roads to access once monsoon season begins, they get muddy and often require a 4WD/AWD vehicle to navigate. The sudden influx of climbers caught townies and Forest Service land managersoff guard, not because they didnt want people coming to Roy, but because they, like me, didnt trust the clamors of world-class climbing in the otherwise barren landscape. Welcome to the enchanting rock climbing of the Jemez Mountains. Go enjoy. Join Outside+ to get Outside magazine, access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. Written by an opinionated local expert, this guide will help you make the most of your time and money, no matter your budget. The vast majority of this information has remained obscure until now, with roughly 80% of these problems previously undocumented. Read more about our policy. I have also included basic information on how to locate locals areas and other less concentrated spots enough to get you reliably to the boulders. Respect local ranchers and hunters. FS Forest Service ETHICS AND ARCHAEOLOGY: No chipping, glue/sika, rosin/pof or excuses.
When you buy something using the retail links in our stories, we may earn a small commission. Snow usually will not hang around at lower elevations however. Although there have undoubtedly been many gems uncovered from the original wave of development, perhaps the most exciting phase of New Mexico bouldering is right now. Signs of civilization were quickly replaced by swaths of dried-up grassland dotted with free-range cattle. As shown on the map above, most roads and trails to these climbing areas split off from Mills Canyon Rim Campground, which serves as a perfect base camp. PRIVATE LAND:A large percentage of New Mexico is public land and open for recreation, including climbing. Unlike big climbing destinations, like Red Rock near Las Vegas, Roys remoteness adds a sense of raw adventure that reminds me of running around in the woods as a kidlike somehow youre the only one in on this magical secret. Coupled with existing bouldering in Box Canyon near Socorro, the Sandia Mountains near Albuquerque, and around Ponderosa in the Jemez Mountains, the bouldering in New Mexico is truly destination-worthy.
Operating any internal combustion engine. City Of Rocks and Questa would also be worthy of describing in detail, but I neglected to do so as they are featured in other guidebooks (see Appendix). Check out the topos on the Vertical-Life App. Currently, there are only two establishedcampgrounds:Mills Canyon, which is difficult to reach and far away from climbing areas, and Mills Canyon Rim, a site that has two pit toilets and six official campsites. Poison Oak: Uncommon in arid climates and above 5000 ft, nonetheless it is found in Roy along streambed banks, so be vigilant and avoid unnecessary bushwhacking if youre sensitive. The arid climate allows great climbing conditions but also proliferates large volumes of loose choss, which would otherwise be eroded away in wetter environs.
Smoking, except within an enclosed vehicle or building, a developed recreation site/improved site or while stopped in an area at least three feet in diameter that is barren or cleared of all flammable materials. Storm systems can occur at any time of the year and will radically change things!