Dimensions seem like they are similar to the SDD XL. The large diameter of this outlet minimizes exiting airspeed to reduce turbulence and keep from pulling the fine dust off the cyclone walls. Go to a good fan table for material handling blowers, locate the column that has the same maximum static pressure as estimated for our system then pick the first impeller size that will move as much air as we want, generally 350 CFM for chip collection or 1000 CFM for fine dust collection.
Open all up and while wearing your respirator mask use a leaf blower or large air compressor to blow all out thoroughly while a strong fan blows out a side or back door. I actually had this exact problem with my HF 2HP version. I have this. That bigger motor also will support a 15" or even 16" diameter impeller that gives a real 1000 CFM through 6" duct. Yep, in spite of the noise these things take it easy when they are not working and should be left on instead of being constantly turned on and off. 
And yes, you still should use a 2-3 hp 3450-RPM blower motor. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsk0VxaVqgZF1i40zvMO9eBXvjE6xZ0gg. As a result they can build up strings and shavings that can throw them badly out of balance and quickly ruin our motor bearings. Paste as plain text instead,
That makes a huge difference in total airflow. The Oneida at $400 ,NOPE.
Having a straight last 5' going into your cyclone is most critical to minimize turbulence.
The following are a few examples of dust collector fan motors that you would use with this left hand inlet cyclone if you are building a tower: Jet DC-1100, Jet DC-1200, Jet DC-1900, Powermatic P1300, Powermatic PM1900, General 10-105, Craftsman 1 1\/2hp, Delta 50-850 and Bridgewood BW-105H.
The dealer told me the fan was the same on both and at the time I didn't know the difference. Why doesn't yours?
Anything less results in the air turning the corner and not separating well. To size the motor we stay on the same line where we found our impeller and check to see how many horse power will be drawn at our lowest resistance level.
If you have the all polyester filters, then instead of replacing your filter when you see that two inch pressure drop, what you do instead is thoroughly wash your filter in accord with the filter maker instructions. Copyright 1995-2022 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. On the other hand, opening all up wide especially with a bigger impeller can draw enough amps to quickly burn up a motor. Given the link shared, I may try the DDXL again, being extremely careful of any leaks, and then if still having issues, just adding some distance and bends between the blower and the separator. Using a particle meter will tell you quickly if you need to replace your filters. Properly sizing a cyclone requires us to know how much air we need to move and to also know both the minimum and maximum resistance our cyclone must work against. The following things will also help.
The biggest advantage of this is he now gets well over 1200 CFM through his 6" pipe, but he has to pay for far more power than running a single 5 hp blower with 15" impeller.
If you open the ports or change the blower, you need to test your unit.
Unfortunately, unless your cyclone diameter and cone are just right adding an air ramp actually decreases separation efficiency. Cyclone Dust Collector - 6 inch inlet on the right, {"modules":["unloadOptimization","bandwidthDetection"],"unloadOptimization":{"browsers":{"Firefox":true,"Chrome":true}},"bandwidthDetection":{"url":"https://ir.ebaystatic.com/cr/v/c1/thirtysevens.jpg","maxViews":4,"imgSize":37,"expiry":300000,"timeout":250}}. Make sure your thoroughly blow down the outside of your filter as well. That still leaves us to size our blower impeller, motor and housing.
It's cost to be considered. The motor overpowered that as well.
Had he followed my advice and gone with all 6" ducting and 6" hoses, with nice straight smooth runs he could have gotten by with a smaller impeller and less suction, but his cyclone would still have been at risk. When the pipe is in the right position, the amperage will be at a maximum. It is important to make sure the container is airtight for the system to work properly. They can block airflow dead when dirty. I recommend a pair of these Nano filters to maximize air filtering and minimize the time and trouble to clean filters. That is generally with the pipe ending very close to the center edge of the cyclone (a perpendicular line at the end of your inlet pipe would go right through the center of the cyclone looking from above). Your link has been automatically embedded. The minimums are one square foot of all polyester filter material for every eight CFM of airflow and one square foot of blended filter for every four CFM of airflow for the blended filters. Unless you use an oversized impeller you need at least a 7" blower inlet and outlet and at least a 14" diameter blower impeller.
I already disassembled and sold the old setup, and reverted the new DC to the intended formation until I can a separator figured out. Most industrial and home built cyclones are pull through units. Remove the existing blower inlet cover and make up a new cover out of 3/4" plywood that matches the plywood on the cyclone and the new inlet diameter.
Make sure you use a minimum of flex hose and that any you use has smooth interior walls as that only has about three times the resistance of smooth pipe. Compound this reduced airflow with any mistakes we make in not properly upgrading out tool hoods and ports or bad ducting mistakes plus using not that good of a blower and most small shop cyclones and dust collectors end up a year or so later working far worse than when new. In fact, speed up the impeller and you now know how to make an air raid siren.
Anything else will greatly cost airflow. Based on other's experience with the DD, I doubt the air turbulence is a problem inherit to the design of the cyclone. Air at dust collection pressures is more like water so any restriction, bad rough ducting, etc.
- eBay Money Back Guarantee - opens in a new window or tab. That said a full cyclone like the CV should have great performance, but I believe is designed for a larger blower. I see these once in a rare while on the Internet surplus shops selling for about $30 each. The other method used in industry to know when a filter needs replaced is to use a pressure gauge and measure the static pressure of your system with the same longest run open after every filter cleaning. Effects on performance????
Sadly, most small shop blowers are not nearly as well made so the best we can hope for is what is normal for commercial blowers. The first and most important serious modification is to go with 6" ducting and 6" flex hose right to your machines and change all the machine ports to full 6" inlets. Otherwise it will cause the incoming air to "turn the corner" and greatly reduce separation efficiency. It does not take much of a leak to cause this to happen. Dust collectors use impeller blowers that work the hardest when they push the most air. Updated: January 28, 2014. Many engineered DC's I see about the countryside seem to have very short cylinders and very long (by comparison) cones and now that you mention it, rectangular inlets also. These cyclones are for use with woodworking dust collectors and large shop vacuums. Appreciate the link though.
This 5' distance is the minimum needed to smooth the airflow and result in far better fine particle separation and more dust pickup at your machines. It does not make sense that barrel is getting emptied by the cyclone/blower. If I find some folks who like it , I will probably go with East Caroga. If the price were higher I'd look into a sheet of wacky wood, or maybe sheet metal, for the cone and some steel for a fame to put it all on a cart. The first though that came to mind was the $149 units on eBay and how much time it will take one to build it.
Try it as is?
One pound of airborne dust will clog a 100 square foot fine filter to point it will barely pass air which is why we often must clean our fine filters.
Strangely the particle counters made matters worse instead of better. A less expensive option is to make up a new cover out of 3/4" to 1" MDF or plywood to mate to the 9" or 10" cyclone outlet pipe. But that's only a guess and a future matter. Here is a link to someone who added the Super Dust Deputy XL to their G0562 with apparent success.
Before leaving this, I do have to point out that my oxygen generator, nebulizer, inhalants, and daily medications cost a whole lot more every month than the cost of a good cyclone with top quality blower and filters.
I got away with this because the blower housing I had was actually made to handle either the 11" impeller supplied or the 12" impeller offered on the next larger model. I'd be certain to use a rubber gasket under the lid and add clamps to lock it down tight. They allare made ofG90, 24 ga galvanized steel and have 1/8" thick flanges on the bottom for mounting. There is zero additional airflow as they end up just as air starved. To find the "exact" optimum performance place, use an amp meter on your motor and move the pipe in and out.
Your original design called for using a 1 to 1.5 hp motor running an 11" impeller, yet that design needs roughly 3/4 hp to just power the cyclone and an 11" impeller is too small to even use the available hp.
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Finally, take a serious look at your blower. will seriously hurt your airflow. Now with that introduction, here are a few things that you can do to make your existing cyclone work better. It is also used to separate grain from chaff. What is going on and what can I do to fix my cyclone? You can make for less turbulence if you make a taper.
They use thePittsburgh lock procedure for seams and some seams are alsosoldered. I made one from MDF to make a smoother transition.
I have incorporated into these units inlet and outlet sizes which are compatible with dust collectors. With the 6 inch inlet this unit will give you a capacity for moving a large volume of material.
Using a 9" cyclone outlet is important, but it also needs to be the right length. I would like to know what you would advise at this point for the least possible expense? They also find when they get particle meters that their systems do a poor job of good fine dust collection because they just do not move enough air.
A fully seasoned filter gets so blocked it will block up to 80% of our airflow if not properly sized. Modification is not easy. In any case, make sure you get the ones open on both ends! The ClearVue is substantially larger than the DDXL. Amazon Best Sellers Others have used other brands including a few who get used large truck cartridge air filters. Using two in series can be made to work if the motors can handle the extra load. Might as well use a shop vac at that point. | In my fairly large metropolitan area there is one and only one shop with the tools to do this custom balancing. I have read that any leaks below the cyclone will pull chips out of the drum. Screw the two plywood sheets together with a weather seal or caulk between them using a piece of plastic between all so they can be taken apart if needed. Air engineers design for that 800 CFM at each larger machine and they also configure their systems with enough blower to make sure the air speed stays around 4000 feet per minute (FPM) which is needed to keep vertical duct from plugging.
You cannot paste images directly. When you do this you must use an amperage meter and ensure the motor is not getting so much air it overstresses. With 3 hp and smaller motors your most open closest run to your cyclone can push your motor over its maximum amperage. You will get some improvement with that 3X cone length, but by the time you make this and your other changes it would have been far easier to simply build my design.
I got sucked in to buying a 1.5hp DC that was "rated" at 120.php (just like its 2hp brother).
The best way to test is to start with a clean shop and filter. Two different types of fine filters are used with woodworking, blended polyester cellulose filters and the roughly twice as expensive all polyester filters. Small shop cyclones are copies of agricultural cyclones designed to severely beat up cotton to separate it from sand and dirt. Blower motors move the most air and do the most work when they have the least resistance. In many cases our particle meters tell us we don't need to replace filters, so paying for an expensive upgrade to get more surface area is foolish because there is a better option. All the major fan/blower makers sell the airfoil impellers for $250-$450 each. At the typical volumes and low pressures used in dust collection air is virtually incompressible. They also carry the much bigger Farr compatible 300 square foot filters. Something that most don't realize is that you can almost make a 55-gallon drum (no offense to those who used one) into a really good cyclone if you add enough power.
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You can easily make this extension by using a piece of HVAC snap lock pipe from a home center. I have the Grizzly G0562Z 3 HP dust collector. Check Cincinnati Fan, New York Blower, Continental Fan, and American Fan web sites. Then install the right size and type of filter for your cyclone or vent it outside. Today a much better option is to increase your filter surface area by adding more filter area. Same diameter as the dust deputy XL but taller. Blower technology is mature meaning the same type, size and speed blower from any of the reputable blower makers will move almost exactly the same air. To keep our vertical ducting runs from plugging we must have about 4000 FPM airspeed. All cyclones, except the shop vac cyclone, use a neutral vane and the inlet tube is sloped down 15 degrees for more efficiency. If we are going to filter, then we really need to upgrade to ensure our unit has enough filter. The 16" fan is supposed to go with the larger CVMAX cyclone, but it works fine with the CV1800. Extending that inlet by adding an extension that goes to the center edge of the cyclone generates about 1/3 less turbulence improving airflow, but does little to reduce the amount of fine dust going into our filters. If you can find someone in your area with these tools, they get to name their own price. Most in private industry find that with the all poly filters costing double the blended filters that by the time they factor in the down time and labor to do the washing, that it is easier and less costly to use the blended filters. This is why most commercial shops that use fine filters must replace their expensive fine filters quarterly. What is not well covered are the cyclone and filter sizing issues, and what you can do to improve your existing cyclone that becomes a marginal performer. Amazon Prime. I have limited metal experience, but always willing to learn, especially on shop projects. The cyclones all have the following in common. If buy is the recommendation, any economical options out there? That will give me a 14" impeller that will just barely fit in my existing blower housing. It is also typical of those with 2-car garage sized shops with lots of ducting and quite a few Ts and Ls with tight bends. The original plan was just to plop the new blower on the existing setup and expand/replace the filters (ignorant in hind sight). For every twenty pounds of sawdust we make, we are also making enough fine dust to cause 15,141 two-car garage sized shops to fail an EPA air quality test, so every 1% missed in collection dumps enough fine dust to cause 151 two-car garage typical sized shops to fail their EPA air quality tests.
A clean new filter will move far more air than a clean but well used filter. If your cyclone and blower are smaller, then know that you are not going to move enough air to get good fine dust collection. Likewise, on EBAY many sell an EBM 1265 CFM HVAC blower that has a plastic airfoil impeller that can be modified to work. Make the cone length 3 times the diameter. Do you still need the 2-3HP to run this fan? This nonsense went on for nearly two decades until individuals started getting access to affordable accurate fine particle counters like the 0.5-micron Dylos Pro counter. Those who make all of these modifications end up with cyclones that only have about 3.5" of static pressure. I returned the one I bought like this after a long nasty fight with the vendor. good luck chris . They show that our typical hobbyist woodworking cyclones should use a 5 horsepower motor turning a 15" impeller. My plans for the blower are to use my current 2 hp DC blower in a push through configuration to see if it works OK. Before using it I will have a local machine shop weld 1" tabs onto each blade and balance the result.
Sadly the 1.5 hp blower is air starved, meaning it does not get enough air to even use 1 hp of power.
Seals are critical as they change performance throughout the system, whether inexpensive or expensive. If we use these units with fine filters we end up putting one pound of filter clogging airborne dust into our filters with every twenty pounds of dust we create. Display as a link instead, Shop vacuums put their filters before their impellers to protect them from material hits. If we use an oversized blower impeller and motor we can generate more pressure and force more air through a smaller duct. This is a dilution problem that is at best ugly. Sadly I get similar questions all of the time.
Install a "neutral vane" into your cyclone.
I suggest you shop carefully and watch shipping costs closely because these huge units can be prohibitively expensive to ship.
Unless you rebuild the whole rest of the cyclone put in the easy to add neutral vane and call it good enough. Take that money and buy a good impeller and motor then make or buy the right sized blower housing for your impeller.
You also can also just upgrade the impeller on your unit, but I would not consider doing so until after opening the ports. If you closed the intake and tested with your amp meter, you would find your unit is loafing!
If not, why?
You mentioned the rectangular inlet would improve airflow about 30% on the WOOD plan.
The following things will also help. Dick and Rick Wynn have been very helpful both with information, supplying top quality filters for good prices, and top quality flex hose and hose clamps for excellent prices as well. With my shop vac the little Dust Deputy is adequate. They are designed for small commercial shops or the home woodworking hobbyist. To size these things we need to know how much air we want to move and both the minimum and maximum resistance levels in our system known as static pressure. This will put the air into the cyclone smoothly and right on the surface to minimize turbulence and give up to a 50% reduction in resistance compared to the original design. Adding one of these to the standard 95 to 120 square feet filter sizes that too many vendors sell will drop filter overhead by a huge amount and greatly increase your airflow. We pick from our table the blower housing size or our selected impeller that uses the same or next larger size opening as our main duct. Does this apply for the STOCK Wood cyclone (with a neutral vane added)?
If you supercharge the amount of air going in with a series of blowers all the blowers get so much air their motors can quickly burn out. Rather than get embarrassed by being shown to sell too open filters, many cyclone and dust collector vendors started selling much finer filters that are too small.
i have seen the oneida C-650 at $400 /or / the east caroga Lg. A 9" round inlet on our small shop cyclones is a joke and sadly how vendors get such huge maximum airflow numbers which are meaningless in real use for either airflow efficiency or dust separation but somehow give top ratings in the magazine tests. Should I just scrap it and start over (I paid a sheet metal guy to do this so it will cost me another $120)? Remember to put your priorities in the right place. Not b/c of air and loss of vacuum but because of physical inertia and the sheer size of the unit. I cut 54 linear feet of 3/4" particle board on my table saw. First time I fired it up, it sucked the pipes clean as well as emptied the barrel. Minimum resistance occurs with the shortest, most open, smoothest ducting run with cleanest filters. ( If you order your cyclone from this page you will receive a cyclone with the inlet on the right hand side. Every time our system removes a full shop of air we only get about half of the airborne dust.
How much will it cost me to weld on the tabs on my impeller and get it balanced? The Wood Magazine design cone that is used by so many other small shop vendors is a weird length arbitrarily chosen by the makers of the cyclone that was copied to permit fitting these just barely under an 8' ceiling. Otherwise you will have poor collection, constantly have to clean filters, and way too often need to replace your fine filters. I built a Wood Magazine design cyclone out of 30 gauge metal as they recommended. That firm was just not set up to deal with small shop purchase volumes. The commercial dust collectors and cyclones that our small shop vendors copy were never engineered to use fine filters. I did mount the blower directly to the top of the DDXL, so perhaps the venting was enough to slow air turbulence or I had a leak somewhere.
Our filters are made of all polyester plastic resin or polyester resin mixed with cellulose fiber. If you cut off the airflow the blower loafs along using the least amount of power. Something went wrong.
Good thought though. Is it ok to reduce the cyclone outlet right at the top of the cyclone so the blower can be top mounted? It astounds me that so many when finding that their units are not "sucking" enough, want to run out and buy a bigger motor. Placed between a dust collector and woodworking piece of machinery they will separate out sawdust down to very fine particles. The air engineer sizing spread sheets always round up to ensure ample capacity. I also looked at the Clearvue, though I haven't found anyone who has added the Clearvue to this Grizzly dust collector. 41 inches tall, 18 inches in diameter, 6 inch inlet on side, 7 inch discharge on top and a 6 inch discharge on bottom with a flange and 8 holes for mounting. Now with that introduction, the easiest way to determine if the worsening performance is filter and airflow related is to simply increase the size of your filter. How would that compare to the WOOD plan with the neutral vane?? Those with straight inlets need to use different length outlet tubes that both keep the air from "turning the corner" and keep that outlet tube from sucking the fine dust off the cyclone walls. You need to carefully check your final system with an amp meter while all blast gates are open fully to ensure you do not draw too many amps. One of my friends powers his two cyclones with a pair of 12" diameter dust collection blowers but he had to upgrade to more powerful motors. How much air we need to move is simply 350 CFM at most larger stationary tools if we want good "chip collection" which picks up the same stuff we would otherwise sweep up with a broom. You can post now and register later. Unfortunately, cleaning fine filters rapidly ruins them. The maximum resistance occurs with the longest, smallest, roughest ducting run with the dirtiest filters.
Yes, the key here is to make sure that it is big enough to not create a fast airflow out and long enough. These cyclones can be mounted on a variety of vessels, like: galvanized trash cans, fibre barrels and wooden boxes. Those who add a "neutral vane" generally see about 1" improvement in static pressure. His cyclone ended up about 3" thick and his 30-gauge HVAC lightweight straight long ducting runs all crimped.
If you are just using the cyclone with a dust collector connected with a flex hose, and not close, it doesn't matter which side the inlet on the cyclone is located.
I ended going without a separator for the short term. Change the cyclone bottom cone dust outlet to 6" in size. Still , $200 plus shipping is very tempting. One of my friend's kids closed the last open duct on the same design cyclone that did not have the recommended wooden rings to keep all round. Maybe an East Caroga metal cyclone, or a slightly bigger alternative .
And yes, you still should use a 2-3 hp 3450-RPM blower motor. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsk0VxaVqgZF1i40zvMO9eBXvjE6xZ0gg. As a result they can build up strings and shavings that can throw them badly out of balance and quickly ruin our motor bearings. Paste as plain text instead, That makes a huge difference in total airflow. The Oneida at $400 ,NOPE.
Having a straight last 5' going into your cyclone is most critical to minimize turbulence.
The following are a few examples of dust collector fan motors that you would use with this left hand inlet cyclone if you are building a tower: Jet DC-1100, Jet DC-1200, Jet DC-1900, Powermatic P1300, Powermatic PM1900, General 10-105, Craftsman 1 1\/2hp, Delta 50-850 and Bridgewood BW-105H. The dealer told me the fan was the same on both and at the time I didn't know the difference. Why doesn't yours?
Anything less results in the air turning the corner and not separating well. To size the motor we stay on the same line where we found our impeller and check to see how many horse power will be drawn at our lowest resistance level.
If you have the all polyester filters, then instead of replacing your filter when you see that two inch pressure drop, what you do instead is thoroughly wash your filter in accord with the filter maker instructions. Copyright 1995-2022 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. On the other hand, opening all up wide especially with a bigger impeller can draw enough amps to quickly burn up a motor. Given the link shared, I may try the DDXL again, being extremely careful of any leaks, and then if still having issues, just adding some distance and bends between the blower and the separator. Using a particle meter will tell you quickly if you need to replace your filters. Properly sizing a cyclone requires us to know how much air we need to move and to also know both the minimum and maximum resistance our cyclone must work against. The following things will also help.
The biggest advantage of this is he now gets well over 1200 CFM through his 6" pipe, but he has to pay for far more power than running a single 5 hp blower with 15" impeller.
If you open the ports or change the blower, you need to test your unit.
Unfortunately, unless your cyclone diameter and cone are just right adding an air ramp actually decreases separation efficiency. Cyclone Dust Collector - 6 inch inlet on the right, {"modules":["unloadOptimization","bandwidthDetection"],"unloadOptimization":{"browsers":{"Firefox":true,"Chrome":true}},"bandwidthDetection":{"url":"https://ir.ebaystatic.com/cr/v/c1/thirtysevens.jpg","maxViews":4,"imgSize":37,"expiry":300000,"timeout":250}}. Make sure your thoroughly blow down the outside of your filter as well. That still leaves us to size our blower impeller, motor and housing.
It's cost to be considered. The motor overpowered that as well.
Had he followed my advice and gone with all 6" ducting and 6" hoses, with nice straight smooth runs he could have gotten by with a smaller impeller and less suction, but his cyclone would still have been at risk. When the pipe is in the right position, the amperage will be at a maximum. It is important to make sure the container is airtight for the system to work properly. They can block airflow dead when dirty. I recommend a pair of these Nano filters to maximize air filtering and minimize the time and trouble to clean filters. That is generally with the pipe ending very close to the center edge of the cyclone (a perpendicular line at the end of your inlet pipe would go right through the center of the cyclone looking from above). Your link has been automatically embedded. The minimums are one square foot of all polyester filter material for every eight CFM of airflow and one square foot of blended filter for every four CFM of airflow for the blended filters. Unless you use an oversized impeller you need at least a 7" blower inlet and outlet and at least a 14" diameter blower impeller.
I already disassembled and sold the old setup, and reverted the new DC to the intended formation until I can a separator figured out. Most industrial and home built cyclones are pull through units. Remove the existing blower inlet cover and make up a new cover out of 3/4" plywood that matches the plywood on the cyclone and the new inlet diameter.
Make sure you use a minimum of flex hose and that any you use has smooth interior walls as that only has about three times the resistance of smooth pipe. Compound this reduced airflow with any mistakes we make in not properly upgrading out tool hoods and ports or bad ducting mistakes plus using not that good of a blower and most small shop cyclones and dust collectors end up a year or so later working far worse than when new. In fact, speed up the impeller and you now know how to make an air raid siren.
Anything else will greatly cost airflow. Based on other's experience with the DD, I doubt the air turbulence is a problem inherit to the design of the cyclone. Air at dust collection pressures is more like water so any restriction, bad rough ducting, etc.
- eBay Money Back Guarantee - opens in a new window or tab. That said a full cyclone like the CV should have great performance, but I believe is designed for a larger blower. I see these once in a rare while on the Internet surplus shops selling for about $30 each. The other method used in industry to know when a filter needs replaced is to use a pressure gauge and measure the static pressure of your system with the same longest run open after every filter cleaning. Effects on performance????
Sadly, most small shop blowers are not nearly as well made so the best we can hope for is what is normal for commercial blowers. The first and most important serious modification is to go with 6" ducting and 6" flex hose right to your machines and change all the machine ports to full 6" inlets. Otherwise it will cause the incoming air to "turn the corner" and greatly reduce separation efficiency. It does not take much of a leak to cause this to happen. Dust collectors use impeller blowers that work the hardest when they push the most air. Updated: January 28, 2014. Many engineered DC's I see about the countryside seem to have very short cylinders and very long (by comparison) cones and now that you mention it, rectangular inlets also. These cyclones are for use with woodworking dust collectors and large shop vacuums. Appreciate the link though.
This 5' distance is the minimum needed to smooth the airflow and result in far better fine particle separation and more dust pickup at your machines. It does not make sense that barrel is getting emptied by the cyclone/blower. If I find some folks who like it , I will probably go with East Caroga. If the price were higher I'd look into a sheet of wacky wood, or maybe sheet metal, for the cone and some steel for a fame to put it all on a cart. The first though that came to mind was the $149 units on eBay and how much time it will take one to build it.
Try it as is?
One pound of airborne dust will clog a 100 square foot fine filter to point it will barely pass air which is why we often must clean our fine filters.
Strangely the particle counters made matters worse instead of better. A less expensive option is to make up a new cover out of 3/4" to 1" MDF or plywood to mate to the 9" or 10" cyclone outlet pipe. But that's only a guess and a future matter. Here is a link to someone who added the Super Dust Deputy XL to their G0562 with apparent success.
Before leaving this, I do have to point out that my oxygen generator, nebulizer, inhalants, and daily medications cost a whole lot more every month than the cost of a good cyclone with top quality blower and filters.
I got away with this because the blower housing I had was actually made to handle either the 11" impeller supplied or the 12" impeller offered on the next larger model. I'd be certain to use a rubber gasket under the lid and add clamps to lock it down tight. They allare made ofG90, 24 ga galvanized steel and have 1/8" thick flanges on the bottom for mounting. There is zero additional airflow as they end up just as air starved. To find the "exact" optimum performance place, use an amp meter on your motor and move the pipe in and out.
Your original design called for using a 1 to 1.5 hp motor running an 11" impeller, yet that design needs roughly 3/4 hp to just power the cyclone and an 11" impeller is too small to even use the available hp.
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Finally, take a serious look at your blower. will seriously hurt your airflow. Now with that introduction, here are a few things that you can do to make your existing cyclone work better. It is also used to separate grain from chaff. What is going on and what can I do to fix my cyclone? You can make for less turbulence if you make a taper.
They use thePittsburgh lock procedure for seams and some seams are alsosoldered. I made one from MDF to make a smoother transition.
I have incorporated into these units inlet and outlet sizes which are compatible with dust collectors. With the 6 inch inlet this unit will give you a capacity for moving a large volume of material.
Using a 9" cyclone outlet is important, but it also needs to be the right length. I would like to know what you would advise at this point for the least possible expense? They also find when they get particle meters that their systems do a poor job of good fine dust collection because they just do not move enough air.
A fully seasoned filter gets so blocked it will block up to 80% of our airflow if not properly sized. Modification is not easy. In any case, make sure you get the ones open on both ends! The ClearVue is substantially larger than the DDXL. Amazon Best Sellers Others have used other brands including a few who get used large truck cartridge air filters. Using two in series can be made to work if the motors can handle the extra load. Might as well use a shop vac at that point. | In my fairly large metropolitan area there is one and only one shop with the tools to do this custom balancing. I have read that any leaks below the cyclone will pull chips out of the drum. Screw the two plywood sheets together with a weather seal or caulk between them using a piece of plastic between all so they can be taken apart if needed. Air engineers design for that 800 CFM at each larger machine and they also configure their systems with enough blower to make sure the air speed stays around 4000 feet per minute (FPM) which is needed to keep vertical duct from plugging.
You cannot paste images directly. When you do this you must use an amperage meter and ensure the motor is not getting so much air it overstresses. With 3 hp and smaller motors your most open closest run to your cyclone can push your motor over its maximum amperage. You will get some improvement with that 3X cone length, but by the time you make this and your other changes it would have been far easier to simply build my design.
I got sucked in to buying a 1.5hp DC that was "rated" at 120.php (just like its 2hp brother).
The best way to test is to start with a clean shop and filter. Two different types of fine filters are used with woodworking, blended polyester cellulose filters and the roughly twice as expensive all polyester filters. Small shop cyclones are copies of agricultural cyclones designed to severely beat up cotton to separate it from sand and dirt. Blower motors move the most air and do the most work when they have the least resistance. In many cases our particle meters tell us we don't need to replace filters, so paying for an expensive upgrade to get more surface area is foolish because there is a better option. All the major fan/blower makers sell the airfoil impellers for $250-$450 each. At the typical volumes and low pressures used in dust collection air is virtually incompressible. They also carry the much bigger Farr compatible 300 square foot filters. Something that most don't realize is that you can almost make a 55-gallon drum (no offense to those who used one) into a really good cyclone if you add enough power.
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You can easily make this extension by using a piece of HVAC snap lock pipe from a home center. I have the Grizzly G0562Z 3 HP dust collector. Check Cincinnati Fan, New York Blower, Continental Fan, and American Fan web sites. Then install the right size and type of filter for your cyclone or vent it outside. Today a much better option is to increase your filter surface area by adding more filter area. Same diameter as the dust deputy XL but taller. Blower technology is mature meaning the same type, size and speed blower from any of the reputable blower makers will move almost exactly the same air. To keep our vertical ducting runs from plugging we must have about 4000 FPM airspeed. All cyclones, except the shop vac cyclone, use a neutral vane and the inlet tube is sloped down 15 degrees for more efficiency. If we are going to filter, then we really need to upgrade to ensure our unit has enough filter. The 16" fan is supposed to go with the larger CVMAX cyclone, but it works fine with the CV1800. Extending that inlet by adding an extension that goes to the center edge of the cyclone generates about 1/3 less turbulence improving airflow, but does little to reduce the amount of fine dust going into our filters. If you can find someone in your area with these tools, they get to name their own price. Most in private industry find that with the all poly filters costing double the blended filters that by the time they factor in the down time and labor to do the washing, that it is easier and less costly to use the blended filters. This is why most commercial shops that use fine filters must replace their expensive fine filters quarterly. What is not well covered are the cyclone and filter sizing issues, and what you can do to improve your existing cyclone that becomes a marginal performer. Amazon Prime. I have limited metal experience, but always willing to learn, especially on shop projects. The cyclones all have the following in common. If buy is the recommendation, any economical options out there? That will give me a 14" impeller that will just barely fit in my existing blower housing. It is also typical of those with 2-car garage sized shops with lots of ducting and quite a few Ts and Ls with tight bends. The original plan was just to plop the new blower on the existing setup and expand/replace the filters (ignorant in hind sight). For every twenty pounds of sawdust we make, we are also making enough fine dust to cause 15,141 two-car garage sized shops to fail an EPA air quality test, so every 1% missed in collection dumps enough fine dust to cause 151 two-car garage typical sized shops to fail their EPA air quality tests.
A clean new filter will move far more air than a clean but well used filter. If your cyclone and blower are smaller, then know that you are not going to move enough air to get good fine dust collection. Likewise, on EBAY many sell an EBM 1265 CFM HVAC blower that has a plastic airfoil impeller that can be modified to work. Make the cone length 3 times the diameter. Do you still need the 2-3HP to run this fan? This nonsense went on for nearly two decades until individuals started getting access to affordable accurate fine particle counters like the 0.5-micron Dylos Pro counter. Those who make all of these modifications end up with cyclones that only have about 3.5" of static pressure. I returned the one I bought like this after a long nasty fight with the vendor. good luck chris . They show that our typical hobbyist woodworking cyclones should use a 5 horsepower motor turning a 15" impeller. My plans for the blower are to use my current 2 hp DC blower in a push through configuration to see if it works OK. Before using it I will have a local machine shop weld 1" tabs onto each blade and balance the result.
Sadly the 1.5 hp blower is air starved, meaning it does not get enough air to even use 1 hp of power.
Seals are critical as they change performance throughout the system, whether inexpensive or expensive. If we use these units with fine filters we end up putting one pound of filter clogging airborne dust into our filters with every twenty pounds of dust we create. Display as a link instead, Shop vacuums put their filters before their impellers to protect them from material hits. If we use an oversized blower impeller and motor we can generate more pressure and force more air through a smaller duct. This is a dilution problem that is at best ugly. Sadly I get similar questions all of the time.
Install a "neutral vane" into your cyclone.
I suggest you shop carefully and watch shipping costs closely because these huge units can be prohibitively expensive to ship.
Unless you rebuild the whole rest of the cyclone put in the easy to add neutral vane and call it good enough. Take that money and buy a good impeller and motor then make or buy the right sized blower housing for your impeller.
You also can also just upgrade the impeller on your unit, but I would not consider doing so until after opening the ports. If you closed the intake and tested with your amp meter, you would find your unit is loafing!
If not, why?
You mentioned the rectangular inlet would improve airflow about 30% on the WOOD plan.
The following things will also help. Dick and Rick Wynn have been very helpful both with information, supplying top quality filters for good prices, and top quality flex hose and hose clamps for excellent prices as well. With my shop vac the little Dust Deputy is adequate. They are designed for small commercial shops or the home woodworking hobbyist. To size these things we need to know how much air we want to move and both the minimum and maximum resistance levels in our system known as static pressure. This will put the air into the cyclone smoothly and right on the surface to minimize turbulence and give up to a 50% reduction in resistance compared to the original design. Adding one of these to the standard 95 to 120 square feet filter sizes that too many vendors sell will drop filter overhead by a huge amount and greatly increase your airflow. We pick from our table the blower housing size or our selected impeller that uses the same or next larger size opening as our main duct. Does this apply for the STOCK Wood cyclone (with a neutral vane added)?
If you supercharge the amount of air going in with a series of blowers all the blowers get so much air their motors can quickly burn out. Rather than get embarrassed by being shown to sell too open filters, many cyclone and dust collector vendors started selling much finer filters that are too small.
i have seen the oneida C-650 at $400 /or / the east caroga Lg. A 9" round inlet on our small shop cyclones is a joke and sadly how vendors get such huge maximum airflow numbers which are meaningless in real use for either airflow efficiency or dust separation but somehow give top ratings in the magazine tests. Should I just scrap it and start over (I paid a sheet metal guy to do this so it will cost me another $120)? Remember to put your priorities in the right place. Not b/c of air and loss of vacuum but because of physical inertia and the sheer size of the unit. I cut 54 linear feet of 3/4" particle board on my table saw. First time I fired it up, it sucked the pipes clean as well as emptied the barrel. Minimum resistance occurs with the shortest, most open, smoothest ducting run with cleanest filters. ( If you order your cyclone from this page you will receive a cyclone with the inlet on the right hand side. Every time our system removes a full shop of air we only get about half of the airborne dust.
How much will it cost me to weld on the tabs on my impeller and get it balanced? The Wood Magazine design cone that is used by so many other small shop vendors is a weird length arbitrarily chosen by the makers of the cyclone that was copied to permit fitting these just barely under an 8' ceiling. Otherwise you will have poor collection, constantly have to clean filters, and way too often need to replace your fine filters. I built a Wood Magazine design cyclone out of 30 gauge metal as they recommended. That firm was just not set up to deal with small shop purchase volumes. The commercial dust collectors and cyclones that our small shop vendors copy were never engineered to use fine filters. I did mount the blower directly to the top of the DDXL, so perhaps the venting was enough to slow air turbulence or I had a leak somewhere.
Our filters are made of all polyester plastic resin or polyester resin mixed with cellulose fiber. If you cut off the airflow the blower loafs along using the least amount of power. Something went wrong.
Good thought though. Is it ok to reduce the cyclone outlet right at the top of the cyclone so the blower can be top mounted? It astounds me that so many when finding that their units are not "sucking" enough, want to run out and buy a bigger motor. Placed between a dust collector and woodworking piece of machinery they will separate out sawdust down to very fine particles. The air engineer sizing spread sheets always round up to ensure ample capacity. I also looked at the Clearvue, though I haven't found anyone who has added the Clearvue to this Grizzly dust collector. 41 inches tall, 18 inches in diameter, 6 inch inlet on side, 7 inch discharge on top and a 6 inch discharge on bottom with a flange and 8 holes for mounting. Now with that introduction, the easiest way to determine if the worsening performance is filter and airflow related is to simply increase the size of your filter. How would that compare to the WOOD plan with the neutral vane?? Those with straight inlets need to use different length outlet tubes that both keep the air from "turning the corner" and keep that outlet tube from sucking the fine dust off the cyclone walls. You need to carefully check your final system with an amp meter while all blast gates are open fully to ensure you do not draw too many amps. One of my friends powers his two cyclones with a pair of 12" diameter dust collection blowers but he had to upgrade to more powerful motors. How much air we need to move is simply 350 CFM at most larger stationary tools if we want good "chip collection" which picks up the same stuff we would otherwise sweep up with a broom. You can post now and register later. Unfortunately, cleaning fine filters rapidly ruins them. The maximum resistance occurs with the longest, smallest, roughest ducting run with the dirtiest filters.
Yes, the key here is to make sure that it is big enough to not create a fast airflow out and long enough. These cyclones can be mounted on a variety of vessels, like: galvanized trash cans, fibre barrels and wooden boxes. Those who add a "neutral vane" generally see about 1" improvement in static pressure. His cyclone ended up about 3" thick and his 30-gauge HVAC lightweight straight long ducting runs all crimped.
If you are just using the cyclone with a dust collector connected with a flex hose, and not close, it doesn't matter which side the inlet on the cyclone is located.
I ended going without a separator for the short term. Change the cyclone bottom cone dust outlet to 6" in size. Still , $200 plus shipping is very tempting. One of my friend's kids closed the last open duct on the same design cyclone that did not have the recommended wooden rings to keep all round. Maybe an East Caroga metal cyclone, or a slightly bigger alternative .