There are no tests that directly compare ice screw durability, but you can expect that these Ultralight screws will get dinged up and dull faster than the full steel version. Along with the new Ultralights, weve been told that the knob on 22cm Express screw will also become purple in the near future. 
When BD talked to us about the engineering behind the screws, they emphasized how many ice blocks they went through trying to get the perfect tooth design that would enable the screws to start beautifully. The Black Diamond Express screws will stay at $59.95. He has been ice climbing for 20 years and exploring the frozen drips of Montana from his home in Bozeman for more than 11 years. This is to meet the strength requirements BD was looking for. Specifically, the pairing of the steel tip with an aluminum body has come along with a redesign of the hanger on the Ultralights that is inferior to that of the Express screws. Instead of featuring distracting ads or creating a paywall to monetize our site, Weigh My Rack LLC links to relevent products via affiliate marketing (if you click a link and then buy, we get a commission). Were often mobile. Suite 23131 Weigh My Rack LLC also participates in affiliate programs with Avantlink, AWIN, Bergfruende, CJ, FlexOffers, Webgains, and other sites. Muerden bien y son ligeros, el ojal es un poco pequeo, pero no incomodo, EpicTV Shop Returns: EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United Kingdom. Of course, I do gravitate towards all-steel screws when placing in green or wet ice as the aluminum guys tent to bind. Reviewing the TX2: Wearing Down La Sportiva Approach Shoes, Approach Shoes for Small Feet and Big Feet, Neon Speedrack Gear Sling The Organizer You Never Knew You Needed, Review: Yates Speed vs Yates Bigwall ladders, Review: The Worst Hand-Tied Aiders on the Market, How to Recycle and Upcycle Used Carabiners. The new aluminum Ultralight Ice Screws from Black Diamond come in the same lengths as the old steel Express screws with the exception of the stubby, 10cm screw which is only available in all-steel. When we write specific place names we will give a land acknowledgement. Black Sheep Adventure Sports was provided with some test samples but of course this didnt influence our opinion in any way. The Ultralights are also easily identified by length with the classic BD color scheme. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Why? Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions | Cookies | Comment Policy | Site Map. The Ultralights also have a larger driving circumference, as the hanger is approximately an inch longer than that of the Express screws when the wire gate is open. That particular issue seems to be a function of the thermal properties of aluminum, not the screw itself though one of our testers seemed to have really good luck with the Kailas aluminum screws. Lastly, the hangers on the Ultralights do not pivot as far off the shaft as the Express hangers do and this limitation causes the Ultralights to bind on the ice sooner. The weight savings on a single 22 cm screw is 79 grams. Overall: Lightweight and functional screws that really bites into ice making placements quick and easy, definitely my new go-to screw. Designed for ski mountaineering, glacial travel and high-end alpinism, the Ultralight Ice Screw says it all in the name.
If you go with the Aluminum version the crank is purple where-as its green if you buy the all-steel version. I thought this extra material seemed superfluous at first, especially when the goal was to make the lightest ice screw on the market.
Unlike most screws, where the cap is flush with the points, the Ultralights have an extension on the cap that allows for easy removal while wearing gloves.
(function($) {window.fnames = new Array(); window.ftypes = new Array();fnames[0]='EMAIL';ftypes[0]='email';fnames[1]='FNAME';ftypes[1]='text';fnames[2]='LNAME';ftypes[2]='text';fnames[7]='MMERGE7';ftypes[7]='dropdown';}(jQuery));var $mcj = jQuery.noConflict(true). Hanger does not pivot off the shaft as far as that of the Express screws; this limitation causes the Ultralight to bind against the ice sooner. In these situations, it is common to rack up long before ice screws will be needed, if at all. $189.95, As low as: Comment document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a56b3731f30cd08df8acb381c89bda5d" );document.getElementById("d6e3358e87").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Times when I was fatiguing and needed the screw to go in quickly or when the stance was a bit awkward. It will go: yellow-blue-gray-purple. We dont know the exact weight that was cut by utilizing a plastic knobversus a knurled aluminum knob, but Black Diamond said it was a surprising amount.. The author on Pitch 2 of Bobo Like, Hyalite Canyon, Montana. The crank on the BD aluminum screws is also a bit more delicate than that on their steel Express screws and so wont take as much abuse either. The innovative wire-gate Express handle shaves more weight and also clicks open and closed. Lets start with the design of the new Ultralight Ice Screws. Available in 13 cm, 16 cm, 19cm, 22 cm. Be the first one to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear. Designed for ski mountaineering, glacial travel and high-end alpinism, the Ultralight Ice Screw says it all in the name. A small detail, but worth noting, is that the knob color range on the Ultralight Ice Screws. In contrast, the Ultralight hangers are comprised of rounded aluminum that does not clear ice as easily. Looking to shave weight wherever they could, Black Diamond constructed this specialty ice screw out of aluminum with a steel tip so as to not compromise drilling efficiency while also dropping weight in critical areas. Highly recommended. Up To 30% Off Backcountry MTB Apparel .css-1081t4c{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}Shop Now, Basecamp Under The Stars Shop Coolers, Camp Furniture & More. Another option to consider is replacing your V-thread kit or anchor screws with Ultralights, which have the same strength rating (10kN) as regular Express screws. Door to door. Possibly because the screws are green? #BlackLivesMatter
All threads on the Ultralights will be the same length as the Express screws. The result is actually a different tooth profile from BDs Express (steel) screws. The main issue that I heard about was a separation of the stainless steel insert from the aluminum tube though there was also some talk about broken cranks. Weighing in at 45% lighter than Black Diamond's Express Screws, the Ultralight Screw combines a steel tip with an aluminum body and forged aluminum hanger that features two clip-in points. $15.10, To: By continuing to browse this website, you are confirming your agreement. The hanger on aluminum screws are made of aluminum making them more delicate than their steel brethren. Of course this will jostle the market slightly, as Petzl and Austri Alpins 21cm screws follow the previous pattern, and are green. Theyre also lighter than the Petzl Laser Speed Light screws by about 18% but of course a straight comparison is only possible on the 13cm screw as the sizing doesnt line-up on the rest of them (see below table). Call us Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm Mountain Time, You have no items in your shopping cartContinue Shopping, Price as configured: 30 N Gould St The Ultralights are also easily identified by length with the classic BD color scheme. Close up of a Black Diamond Ultralight Express screw (green) racked next to regular Express screws. So far, this is a problem that has plagued any and every manufacturer trying this hybrid solution so well have to wait to see how well BD does. The drastic weight savings are the result of pairing a steel tip with an aluminum body and a wire-gate Express handle that is color-coded according to size. Similarly, if you really crank/torque the wire handle, it will bend. Black Diamond designed the Ultralights for climbers attempting alpine climbs with huge approaches, glacier travel or ski mountaineering, or any situation when you dont want your seldom used safety gear weighing you down. - Powered by Crucial for fast and light objectives in the mountains. Very light weight but still bites well! The Ultralight ice screws will excel when your goals encompass the fast and light ethos. Wire-gate Express handle So the question is: are you the type of person that doesnt mind your lightweight gear needing to be coddled? Support WMR: Click before you buy at REI and Backcountry. This may require more clearing of ice or minimize ability to place in tight spots. Black Diamond spent a lot of time figuring out not only how to cut weight while keeping the essential strength requirements, but also taking care to make sure the screws would function well while racked and going into ice. However, for some strange reason BD decided to deviate from their standard colors with the 22cm screw. Tax $0.00Checkout, You can compare a maximum of 5 productsStart comparison, Copyright 2019 - Theme By DMWS - RSS feed. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. [Photo] Chris Luehder. Todd Preston is a geologist with the US Geological Survey. My first impression of the Ultralight screws was the weight, or lack thereof. The flip-out wire gate, which feels as if it might bend if torqued on too hard (especially in wet, actively forming ice or on the longer screws), also discourages hitting the screw to clear ice. Theyre 42-45% lighter than the equivalent size Express screw which is simply amazing! This will produce greater torque, but also requires more uniform ice or clearing and can limit some placements in narrow clefts. What you see at the checkout is what you'll pay. Tube Diameters for some Common Ice Screws: Now because BDs Ultralight Ice Screws have a larger tube diameter than their steel brethren, the tooth profile had to change a bit. Lightspeed. These screws are a far cry from the old BD Turbo ice screws I used during my first few seasons of ice climbing along the Front Range of Colorado in the 1990s. Editor in Chief at Black Sheep Adventure Sports. Sheridan, Wyoming 82801. Backcountry Advocate ProgramBreaking Trail, An ice screw for anything from glacial travel to ice climbing, Aluminum shaft and steel tip create the lightest ice screw available, Hanger geometry adds two holes without producing additional weight, Folding wire handle folds into the hanger when not in use, Multiple lengths allow for placement in a variety of conditions, Color coded handles let you designate lengths on the fly. Also, the wire gate seems as if it may bend if torqued on too hard. Larger diameter makes threading V-threads easier. By keeping the screws capped on your harness while you travel up steep couloirs or across ice sheets, you could minimize snagging on other equipment and protect the points, yet the cap could be removed easily with a gloved hand when needed. The Ultralights are also easily identified by length with the classic BD color scheme. Ive bent the odd Petzl aluminum hanger trying to get that last turn out of the screw when it just doesnt quite want to go all the way around. The basic design features include: The new aluminum hanger sports two large clip-in points as well as a cool and unique crank. The author places a Black Diamond Ultralight Express screw in Hyalite Canyon, Montana. $19.47, From: The Ultralights are perfect for ski mountaineering, glacial travel and high-end alpinism. To avoid assumptions well ask to share gender pronouns. Going larger in diameter saves on weight and material costs so is the obvious choice. However, after several days of climbing frozen waterfalls using both Ultralights and traditional Express screws, I noticed some design limitations that, in my opinion, were not offset by the reduced weight when used exclusively for this application. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. Most times when weight is reduced, so goes durability. To find out more about our privacy policy, including use of cookies, please visit our, Hanger: Forged Aluminum, Body: Aluminum, Tip: Stainless Steel, 13cm (Yellow), 16cm (Blue), 19cm (Grey), 22cm, (Purple). 2022 Outdoor Gear Exchange, Inc., All Rights Reserved. A folding handle shaves more weight when you thought the product developers couldn't keep finding ways to cut back, and the handles are color coded so you can choose the correct length and drill the screw on the fly as you fight the pump. Black Diamond designed the Ultralights to fill a specific nichemainly ski mountaineering, glacial travel, and big alpine adventures. Black Diamond's Ultralight Ice Screw was designed because weight matters for those serious fast and light missions. Based on the design of a wire-gate for a carabiner the crank is not only lightweight but also snaps open and closed. By using our website, you agree to the usage of cookies to help us make this website better. This means that with very little sharpening of the steel tip will expose the interior aluminum tube and may weaken the teeth. Screw the media bias of marketing budgets, we treat all brands equally.