Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. These features, used in conjunction with a thumb loop or piece, can greatly affect the ergonomics of a cam and contribute to the ease by which they are placed or removed from a cam. We took pictures and notes to record the movement of cams and made careful observation of what happened to the cam when the rope moved through the carabiner to help determine why some cams were more stable than others. Some cams, such as Aliens, seek to strike a balance by offering four narrow cam lobes to better work in shallow placements. The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams feature kevlar trigger wires and the wires on the trigger piece are also coated, making them a durable option. The thumb loop or tab is a key piece in a cams ergonomics as, used with the trigger bar, its what allows a cam to be placed and cleaned from a crack. In general, testers favored thumb loops for their ease of use compared to thumb pieces or tabs and they favored trigger bars that were wider or had some contour or texture to them to aid in their use. Read the Full Review (The most notable difference is in the #2). While during in-house testing we were able to better control test results we still observed and made note of cams that were more prone to moving and came close to losing some cams when they walked into difficult positions that required careful extraction. Friends also offer patented hollow axles on all but their smallest size, which they claim to be lighter and stiffer. Built on the companys original 13.75 constant camming angle, the new Friends have seen notable upgrades, including weight savings. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. While cam companies dont typically advertise a lifespan for their product, other than regular replacement of the slings, the Camalot Ultralights are unique in that the Dyneema core stem includes a ten year lifespan, limiting their longevity. Meanwhile, three-lobe cams, often referred to as TCUs, lose some security due to less surface area but can fit shallower placements and make use of otherwise difficult to protect cracks. Access to all member-only content on all 17 publications in the Outside network like Rock and Ice, Climbing, Outside, Backpacker, Trail Runner and more. An increasing number of companies offer lightweight versions of their cams or they have made efforts to shed weight from their existing line. Jardines creations were a revolution in climbing protection, enabling climbers to more easily place and remove gear and more importantly, to better protect parallel sided cracks where stoppers and hexes of the past were limited to finding constrictions. To test a cams stability we used field testing but we also pulled hundreds of feet of rope through a carabiner attached to the cam while placed in an adjustable crack made of wood. amzn_assoc_ad_type = "smart"; I really hope we will see a .1-.3 size in the future, as Wild Country already has the lockdown with my favorite wide pieces (the 5 & 6 Tech Friends). A cams range, flexibility, features, performance, weight and the number of sizes available can affect its versatility. Only four sizes are offered in the Omega Pacific Link Cams while other cams, such as the Black Diamond C4 Camalot and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, offer a wide size range, giving them the ability to serve as the backbone to a rack. On long and wondering pitches, I often find myself out of slings near the end of the pitch. While not the lightest cams tested, the Friends offer a lot of features seen on a heavier cam and their biggest drawback may be that they are only available in seven sizes. We tested the cams extensively in the field but also came up with some in-house testing to help gauge things like a cams stability. amzn_assoc_ad_mode = "manual"; Jardine used them to great effect on previously difficult to protect climbs in Yosemite National Park, including one of the worlds first 5.13s, The Phoenix. Additionally, the trigger wires are coated to prevent damage and they held up through all manner of use and abuse during testing. The Friends are lighter than both the BD C4s and DMM Dragon 2s, but the Black Diamond Ultralights are still the clear winner in weight savings. The Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights are the lightest double axle cam on the market and cut 25% weight from their popular C4 predecessors. This savings is equivalent to the weight of a small cam. Companies such as Black Diamond and Metolius have shed 25% weight from their previous cams in their lightweight versions. Particularly in areas such as the Gunks, where the horizontally banded rock necessitates a lot of horizontal placements, the rigid stems had to be tied off short to avoid levering the stem and negatively affecting the placement or potentially breaking the stem in a fall. All rights reserved. Our test results came after dozens of days of field testing on desert towers, high alpine routes in the mountains, granite single and multi-pitch and hours spent testing and handling cams during in-house testing. The TripleGrip cam lobes are the widest cam lobes out of the cams tested and feature square cut edges and a non-anodized surface to increase stability and holding power. Their feedback provided the information to best understand how each cam performed. Particularly with large cams, the lobes can be bent or deformed by accident, such as throwing a heavy pack laden with cams down on the ground. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. With a new .4 size coming in 2018, this will surely help extend the current range offering. I bought them with my own money because they kick ass. amzn_assoc_search_bar = "true"; Cam stability is another key component of what climbers look for when considering a cam. You can wash your cam heads with hot water and a toothbrush to remove any debris thats limiting motion. The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are a lightweight cam with ten sizes to put on your rack, from cams smaller than your fingertips to fist size. Omega Pacifics trisected cam lobes make for a unique engineering creation that is visually amusing to watch and offers the widest size range out of any cam on the market. In general, double axle cams proved the most stable but during our testing, both in the field and in-house, we also honed in on other factors that are prone to affecting a cams position, such as the sling used and how its attached to the thumb loop or piece.
Check out more of the Best New Climbing Gear of 2016 here, Pol Roca on the FA of Purple Panther (V15), Seb Bouin Takes On Fred Rouhlings Unrepeatable 9as, Project Unknown | To Become A Trad Climber, Killer Mountain: Death and Rescue on Nanga Parbat in Winter. > the bigger dragons are lighter than the comparable friends. The Fixe Alien Revolution cams are a lightweight cam with a super flexible stem and narrow profile that make them ideal for small, shallow placements as well as horizontal placements. I sure hope so. Companies such as Black Diamond and Wild Country offer trigger wire replacement kits while most companies, such as Metolius, and some third party services such as Fish, offer mail-in cam repair services of trigger wires and slings. amzn_assoc_linkid = "517cc076fb25678fe34e9ef2d0200ff3"; Read the Full Review Please provide your cell phone number for shipping purposes. > I'd be interested if those above disparaging WC friends could give some concrete reasons for this. amzn_assoc_placement = "adunit0"; Commonly referred to as cams but more formally called spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs), theyve become a standard on nearly every climbers traditional rack. Trigger wires may be the first part to be damaged and need repair although many modern cams are taking greater effort to make trigger wires more durable and longer lasting. If stitched loosely the thumb loop strength is reduced. My favorite feature is the extra recessed trigger bar and shorter overall length of the bar itself, which provides a great feel when in your hand. All cams are operated with a trigger bar that retracts the cam lobes so that the cam can be placed. includes discounted products from Rockfax. This equates to a stiffer and lighter camming unit as compared to the competition (see chart below). Modern cams, in general, have become lighter while also becoming easier to use due to favorable ergonomics and offer an increasing number of features. The DMM Dragon Cams were found to the most durable with the widest cam lobes in our testing, a cable stem that is protected from damage by plastic and a thick, stout thumb piece. In an effort to increase placement security, the lobes are wider throughout the cam in comparison to the BD C4s. amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon"; Regularly inspect your cam lobes, axles, stems, trigger wires, and slings for signs of damage. amzn_assoc_title = "Related Best Sellers"; Finally, the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights were easy to add to any rack due to their lightweight and great ergonomics. Most of my friends havent realized they were using Wild Country or they mistook them for Ultralights. Durability is good with solid cam lobe and stem construction and tough Kevlar trigger wires.
This weight savings can add up, particularly when taking multiples in sizes for desert splitter cracks or when loading up a pack with overnight gear for an alpine climb. Stability concerns and not having larger sizes were their drawback. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. The Ultralight Master Cams from Metolius offered the most sizesa range of 10of any cam tested and their lightweight construction and durable components appealed to many. This week's Friday Night Video is a feature documentary based on the unique climbing culture of a small city park on the outskirts of Los Angeles, California. They also contain deeper grooves than their BD counterparts, which make the Friends easier to place. Available with a single or extendable sling provides a lot of options for buyers along with offset or hybrid versions that excel in flared placements such as pin scars. The lightweight and effective ergonomics of the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights gave them great appeal for long climbs and climbs requiring many pieces of gear but a less flexible stem, concerns about durability, only six sizes available limited their broader appeal with those looking for a rugged single pitch climbing cam. Points: 30, Latest Companies such as DMM, Wild Country and Fixe offer extendable slings on their cams, making it easier for climbers to extend the clip-in point on a sling to make a deep placement more functional, reduce rope drag or improve a placements stability by allowing a freely moving sling. > I'd be interested if those above disparaging WC friends could give some concrete reasons for this. WatchJames Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini put the new Friends to the test: The new Friends have been redesigned with Wild Countrys patented hollow axles. Black Diamonds Camalots have been a popular choice on many racks and hence today many companies have copied their color coding for sizes, such as is the case with modern Friends and DMM Dragons. Durable components including Kevlar trigger wires, Less stable than the double axle cams tested, Extendable sling harder to use than others, Available in single or extendable, double slings, Durability concerns, particularly with wires, Smallest three sizes rated to 7 kN and under, Durability issues with cam lobes and stems. > I meant the larger of the sizes he specified, but yes, the balance swings the other way again in the big sizes.
Shop Now at Backcountry.com. Heavy use further reduces that. Read the Full Review Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. Cams have either a thumb loop or thumb piece, the former offering a wide and spacious place that can help hold your thumb in place when in use. Moja Gear accepts reviews from trusted climbers and gear testers.
UKClimbing Limited. We looked for signs of walking and stability when placing cams in various cracks of all different sizes. Some slings on cams showed signs that they would need to be replaced sooner than later, as is common with many of the skinny, lightweight slings used on cams such as the Dragons or Wild Country Friends. All cam lobes have some manner of teeth to them but companies have branched out from simple the basic teeth offered on early cams to offer other teeth patterns and designs to try to increase stability and security of cam placements. Will Wild Country try and compete in the ultralight market? Go and get the ones you think feel nicest, you won't regret whichever you buy, any reasoned argument either way will merely be a theoretical excersise. This makes the dreaded Frankenstein rack (mix-matching different brands) a non-issue. Since climbing on the Friends, Ive never once brought less alpine draws because I had the adjustable slings, but Ive enjoyed having the extra extension for many reasons: Its hard for me to come up with suggestions for improvement.
Both offer great features, performance and versatility. The ounces saved on individual cams can add up to pounds or, at the very least, take away some of the question about whether or not you want to add a piece or two to a big rack. Other features found include Metolius RangeFinder, a color-coded system to provide a visual aid in showing climbers where the best placement is.
Companies like Wild Country and DMM that use adjustable slings on their cams advertise this as additional weight savings because you can bring less alpine draws I think this is a moot point.
Check out more of the Best New Climbing Gear of 2016 here, Pol Roca on the FA of Purple Panther (V15), Seb Bouin Takes On Fred Rouhlings Unrepeatable 9as, Project Unknown | To Become A Trad Climber, Killer Mountain: Death and Rescue on Nanga Parbat in Winter. > the bigger dragons are lighter than the comparable friends. The Fixe Alien Revolution cams are a lightweight cam with a super flexible stem and narrow profile that make them ideal for small, shallow placements as well as horizontal placements. I sure hope so. Companies such as Black Diamond and Wild Country offer trigger wire replacement kits while most companies, such as Metolius, and some third party services such as Fish, offer mail-in cam repair services of trigger wires and slings. amzn_assoc_linkid = "517cc076fb25678fe34e9ef2d0200ff3"; Read the Full Review Please provide your cell phone number for shipping purposes. > I'd be interested if those above disparaging WC friends could give some concrete reasons for this. amzn_assoc_placement = "adunit0"; Commonly referred to as cams but more formally called spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs), theyve become a standard on nearly every climbers traditional rack. Trigger wires may be the first part to be damaged and need repair although many modern cams are taking greater effort to make trigger wires more durable and longer lasting. If stitched loosely the thumb loop strength is reduced. My favorite feature is the extra recessed trigger bar and shorter overall length of the bar itself, which provides a great feel when in your hand. All cams are operated with a trigger bar that retracts the cam lobes so that the cam can be placed. includes discounted products from Rockfax. This equates to a stiffer and lighter camming unit as compared to the competition (see chart below). Modern cams, in general, have become lighter while also becoming easier to use due to favorable ergonomics and offer an increasing number of features. The DMM Dragon Cams were found to the most durable with the widest cam lobes in our testing, a cable stem that is protected from damage by plastic and a thick, stout thumb piece. In an effort to increase placement security, the lobes are wider throughout the cam in comparison to the BD C4s. amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon"; Regularly inspect your cam lobes, axles, stems, trigger wires, and slings for signs of damage. amzn_assoc_title = "Related Best Sellers"; Finally, the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights were easy to add to any rack due to their lightweight and great ergonomics. Most of my friends havent realized they were using Wild Country or they mistook them for Ultralights. Durability is good with solid cam lobe and stem construction and tough Kevlar trigger wires.
This weight savings can add up, particularly when taking multiples in sizes for desert splitter cracks or when loading up a pack with overnight gear for an alpine climb. Stability concerns and not having larger sizes were their drawback. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. The Ultralight Master Cams from Metolius offered the most sizesa range of 10of any cam tested and their lightweight construction and durable components appealed to many. This week's Friday Night Video is a feature documentary based on the unique climbing culture of a small city park on the outskirts of Los Angeles, California. They also contain deeper grooves than their BD counterparts, which make the Friends easier to place. Available with a single or extendable sling provides a lot of options for buyers along with offset or hybrid versions that excel in flared placements such as pin scars. The lightweight and effective ergonomics of the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights gave them great appeal for long climbs and climbs requiring many pieces of gear but a less flexible stem, concerns about durability, only six sizes available limited their broader appeal with those looking for a rugged single pitch climbing cam. Points: 30, Latest Companies such as DMM, Wild Country and Fixe offer extendable slings on their cams, making it easier for climbers to extend the clip-in point on a sling to make a deep placement more functional, reduce rope drag or improve a placements stability by allowing a freely moving sling. > I'd be interested if those above disparaging WC friends could give some concrete reasons for this. WatchJames Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini put the new Friends to the test: The new Friends have been redesigned with Wild Countrys patented hollow axles. Black Diamonds Camalots have been a popular choice on many racks and hence today many companies have copied their color coding for sizes, such as is the case with modern Friends and DMM Dragons. Durable components including Kevlar trigger wires, Less stable than the double axle cams tested, Extendable sling harder to use than others, Available in single or extendable, double slings, Durability concerns, particularly with wires, Smallest three sizes rated to 7 kN and under, Durability issues with cam lobes and stems. > I meant the larger of the sizes he specified, but yes, the balance swings the other way again in the big sizes. Shop Now at Backcountry.com. Heavy use further reduces that. Read the Full Review Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. Cams have either a thumb loop or thumb piece, the former offering a wide and spacious place that can help hold your thumb in place when in use. Moja Gear accepts reviews from trusted climbers and gear testers.
UKClimbing Limited. We looked for signs of walking and stability when placing cams in various cracks of all different sizes. Some slings on cams showed signs that they would need to be replaced sooner than later, as is common with many of the skinny, lightweight slings used on cams such as the Dragons or Wild Country Friends. All cam lobes have some manner of teeth to them but companies have branched out from simple the basic teeth offered on early cams to offer other teeth patterns and designs to try to increase stability and security of cam placements. Will Wild Country try and compete in the ultralight market? Go and get the ones you think feel nicest, you won't regret whichever you buy, any reasoned argument either way will merely be a theoretical excersise. This makes the dreaded Frankenstein rack (mix-matching different brands) a non-issue. Since climbing on the Friends, Ive never once brought less alpine draws because I had the adjustable slings, but Ive enjoyed having the extra extension for many reasons: Its hard for me to come up with suggestions for improvement. Both offer great features, performance and versatility. The ounces saved on individual cams can add up to pounds or, at the very least, take away some of the question about whether or not you want to add a piece or two to a big rack. Other features found include Metolius RangeFinder, a color-coded system to provide a visual aid in showing climbers where the best placement is.
Companies like Wild Country and DMM that use adjustable slings on their cams advertise this as additional weight savings because you can bring less alpine draws I think this is a moot point.